Weather forecasts bear little import in these parts, and the locals joke that the Lake District has four seasons a day. To beat the crowds, aim for October and November or March and April, and avoid the busy July and August ski season.

The country code for Argentina is 54. Prices quoted are for December 2005, which is the start of high season. Unless otherwise noted, tour prices are per person. The nearest U.S. consulate is at 4300 Avenida Colombia in Buenos Aires (11-5777-4533; buenosaires.usembassy.gov).

To help me juggle a tight itinerary that included premium lakeside lodges and outdoor adventure, I built my trip with Hebe Cafferata of Lihue Expeditions, in Buenos Aires (11-5031-0070; argentina@lihue-expeditions.com.ar). Blue Parallel, which specializes in custom vacations in the Lakes, was also helpful. Its pricey packages aren't terribly imaginative, but its guides will cater to your every whim (800-256-5307; blueparallel.com; from $6,000 for seven days). The growing list of bilingual Bariloche-based outfitters includes Meridies, which has everything from two-week mountain-and-lake expeditions to one-day kayak adventures (29-4444-1219; meridies.com.ar; from $100 per day). Aukache pairs high adventure with gourmet picnics in the great outdoors (29-4442-9572; aukache.com; from $90). Extremo Sur's full-day rafting program is superbly organized and a great value at $50 per day (9-29-4442-7301; extremosur.com). In Villa La Angostura, Tony Hawes is the guide of choice for discovering the Arrayanes. He'll even bring along the maté and cookies (9-29-44-5647-24; almasur.com; from $40).

Isla Victoria
The Hosteria Isla Victoria's isolated wilderness setting is without peer; you'll particularly enjoy it if you book a lakeside room. And the new four-bedroom log cabin, 200 feet from the main lodge, is a masterpiece. The staff are superb, and the food is shockingly good despite the limited choices. Activities such as kayaking, horseback riding, and hiking are included in the room rate. Sadly, faulty plumbing, cheap towels, and horrendous artwork diminish the overall effect (11-4394-9605; islavictoria.com; doubles, $570, all-inclusive, with a two-night minimum).

San Carlos de Bariloche
Lakeside Llao Llao Hotel & Resort Golf-Spa—the centerpiece of Argentine architect Alejandro Bustillo's glittering career—is a first-class act for its service, exquisite cypress interiors, and redesigned golf course. A sumptuous breakfast is served in the grand salon, afternoon tea in the winter garden. Work has already begun on a new 40-suite wing (2944-448530; llaollao.com; doubles, $230–$680). Design Suites is magnificently conceived and superior to its sister hotel in Buenos Aires. Making stylish use of natural light and Chilean pinewood, the bar/restaurant/reception area and the gigantic bedrooms manage to pull off the impossible: a warm brew of bold minimalism. Unfortunately, great design is not the same as great construction: Cracks have already appeared in the concrete (11-4814-8700; designsuites.com; doubles, $175–$300). A three-year-old estancia set between two pristine lakes, Peuma Hue sleeps eight in the main house and 18 others in the beautifully crafted log cabins dotting the property. Rates include meals, and guided hikes and horseback rides, as well as the 20-minute drive to Bariloche (54-9-2944-501030; peuma-hue.com; doubles, $170–$255). Located on the sleepy San Pedro peninsula, the gray stone Hotel Aldebaran is even newer. It has gorgeous stone mosaics in the cozy bar/lounge and ten huge, comfortable, earth-colored bedrooms (29-4446-5132; aldebaranpatagonia.com; doubles, $180–$220).

For dinner, try the wild boar ravioli at the region's best Italian restaurant, Il Gabbiano, near the Llao Llao Hotel (24300 Avenida E. Bustillo; 29-4444-8346; entrées, $5–$10). In Bariloche, Kandahar is a revelation—and it's named after a ski competition, not the Afghani town (698 20 de Febrero; 29-4442-4702; entrées, $4–$9). For a truly Argentine night on the town, step out at El Rincon del Tango (40 Moreno; 29-4452-7921). And, finally, for a slice of the area's estancia life, drive out near the airport to El Condor Ranch, where ranch workers will be happy to give you a tour (800-256-5307; blueparallel.com).

Villa La Angostura
The best luxe deal was originally a boardinghouse, then a venerated fishing lodge. Today, the riverside Hotel Correntoso has been restored to its former splendor, with light-wood interiors, bay windows, loads of leather chairs and sofas, and a restaurant with a wraparound terrace (11-4803-0030; correntoso.com; doubles, $116–$199). With bay views, a roaring log fire, over-sized armchairs, and monogrammed linens, the small, modern Las Balsas looks and feels old-world. Thanks to Pablo Campoy's inspired cooking, this is Patagonia's gourmet getaway, and the spa is its detox destination of choice. Unfortunately, the 12 rooms and three suites are not soundproof (29-4449-4308; www.lasbalsas.com.ar; doubles, $320–$420).

Down the road in Puerto Manzano is the more modest and minimalist La Escondida. While this new ten-room lodge lacks atmosphere, a lovingly restored wooden cabin houses Delfina Restaurant, the Lake District's most romantic dining spot (29-4447-5313; hosterialaescondida.com.ar; doubles, $100–$120; entrées, $10–$13). Villa la Angostura's other dining destination is Martin Zorreguieta's funky fusion joint Tinto Bistro (29-4449-4924; entrées, $8–$12).

Reading
Rough Guide's Argentina is the most thorough of the guidebooks ($24). Time Out's Patagonia is also information-packed ($17).