Condé Nast Traveler

Room With A View

by Annemarie Kropf | Published June 2006 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles ›

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Bungalow 208, Topas Ecolodge, Hoang Lien Mountains, Vietnam; 84-20-872-404; topas-eco-lodge.com. There are 25 bungalows; doubles range from $135 to $165, including meals. Bungalow 208 is $145–$165.

It's dusk, and as you step out on your private balcoony to take in the majestic view, the hills are alive with the sound of…Wait, these are not those hills but the verdant Hoang Lien Mountains (known as the Tonkinese Alps since French colonial times). Nevertheless, this region in northern Vietnam is euphonious, from the birdsong of the 150 species found around these peaks to the melodious dialects spoken by ethnic minorities including the Tay, the Ban Ho, and the Black H'mong, all of whom reside around the former hill station of Sapa, 11 miles away. The harmony between centuries-old traditions and current trends like this ecolodge makes Sapa a gem of a destination. Sensitive to its surroundings, the Topas Ecolodge has solar-powered bungalows constructed with indigenous materials by local builders and is staffed by villagers from the rice-terraced valley below.