Some places are heaven for the independent traveler. And some, well, aren't. For our new series, "Iconic Itineraries,' we've picked six destinations that are must-sees but whose massive tourism infrastructures are so geared toward groups that having an authentic, unique trip can feel next to impossible. Not to worry. Working with the world's leading travel specialists, we've created step-by-step trips that let you see the best each place has to offer, but on your terms. Each of our highly detailed itineraries has been vetted and perfected by a Condé Nast Traveler editor, and each can either be bought as is with just one phone call or customized at will. First up: Peru.

The Problem Who doesn't want to see Machu Picchu, the fifteenth-century city built upon gravity-defying terraces and hidden under a scrim of vegetation deep in the Andes until less than a hundred years ago? The answer, as I feared, is almost no one. In high season, up to 3,600 people a day tromp through this ancient site.

I planned my trip with four goals in mind. First, I wanted to see the ruins without having to elbow my way to the front of a tourist mob. Second, I wanted to approach them on foot, as the Incas did, while avoiding the worst of the overcrowded Inca Trail. Third, I wanted to visit Cusco, a palimpsest of Incan and Spanish architecture and history. Finally, I wanted a chance to meet local people in the nearby backcountry. First step? I called Tom Damon, of Southwind Adventures (for more information on picking a travel agent see our travel agent FAQ), to find out if my demands were even possible. Together, we worked on an itinerary, which I subsequently tested, rejiggered, and streamlined to create the ultimate six-day tour of Peru's highlights. Here it is:

Day 1: Cusco
Arrive in Lima by flying overnight from New York or Miami and connect to the 9:30 a.m. flight to Cusco. Your driver will be waiting for you at the airport when your plane lands at 10:45 a.m. Altitude sickness is common here, so take it easy today, and carry water wherever you go. Your hotel is the Monasterio—avoid rooms 414 through 419, which are near a noisy generator, and ask for one of the standards with a terrace (51-84-24-1777; monasterio.orient-express.com; doubles, $405). Once you're settled in, walk to Tunupa for lunch; this will be your first of many chances to try guinea pig or alpaca (233 Portal Confituría; 51-84-25-2936; lunch entrées, $9–$17). Have your guide and driver pick you up at the restaurant at 2 p.m. If you're feeling good, stop at a market for a bottle of wine (I'll explain why later); all of Peru's labels are inexpensive, but Tacama is the most reliable. Then follow your guide on a standard city tour, but see the sights in this order (it's different from what most tourists do, so you won't be stuck behind a crowd): the cathedral, where the biblical paintings include images of llamas and macaws; Santo Domingo/Koricancha, a Catholic church built atop an Incan temple; and the nearby ruins of Tambomachy, Q'enqo, Puca Pucara, and Sacsayhuamán; at the last you can uncork your wine as the sun sinks behind the city. Your days will be starting early for the next week, so get to Ciccolina for dinner by seven. For the local scoop, sample tapas among Cusceños in the bar (393 Calle Triunfo; 51-84-23-9510; entrées, $11–$16).