Some places are perfect for the independant traveler. And some, well, aren't. For our series "Iconic Itineraries," we've picked six destinations that are must-sees but whose massive tourism infrastructures are so geared toward groups that having an authentic, unique experience can seem next to impossible. Not to worry. Working with the world's leading travel specialists, we've created step-by-step trips that let you see the best each place has to offer, but on your terms. Each of our highly detailed itineraries has been vetted and perfected by a Condé Nast Traveler editor, and each can be either bought as is with just one phone call or customized at will. So here it is:

The Challenge
Egypt is among the world's most popular destinations. Especially in the high season, October through April, its historic sites, the majority of which are in a narrow band along the banks of the Nile River, are a series of bottlenecks. If you have only 10 to 14 days and need your sightseeing to be efficient and foolproof, then a guided tour is the only realistic option: one, because the must-sees are scattered the length of the country, and transportation—planes, cars, boats—needs to be seamlessly arranged; two, because you need help securing entrance tickets and effectively negotiating lines at museums and monuments. Yet fully guided tours run the strong risk of leaching all charm and serendipity from a trip. Egypt—for all its current political and economic dilemmas, its tatty, chaotic cities, its heat and crowds—remains magnificent. You cannot fully appreciate it, feel its weight and complexity, if you are never alone with it.

The Solution
It is threefold. One, book a private guided tour, not a group one. Yes, it will cost more, but this is the trip of a lifetime—and worth it. There will be large groups with squawking guides wherever you go, but at least you will be able to enjoy private meals and the flexibility and personal attention of one-on-one guidance. Two, contact Egypt specialist James Berkeley of Destinations & Adventures International (see "Wendy Perrin's 128 Top Travel Specialists," August 2006, or use Concierge.com's Travel Agent Finder). Berkeley has access to some of the best guides in the country and will customize your schedule, allowing for plenty of private time. Three, strongly consider going in May, June, or early July. If you can tolerate heat—and in Upper Egypt temperatures can reach (an albeit dry) 120 degrees at midday—and are able to build enough pool time into your schedule, it's your best chance of seeing the monuments without hundreds of other visitors intruding on your views and experiences. Here is the itinerary Berkeley and I designed—so you can see the most, in the best way, and have some unprogrammed time as well.

Day 1: Cairo
Take EgyptAir's overnight flight from New York, which lands at 11:30 a.m. (If you purchase your international tickets on EgyptAir, you'll save hundreds of dollars on the internal airfare). At Cairo International Airport, you will be met and assisted through customs/immigration by your guide. The trip to town takes an hour. The best two hotel options—both of which offer superb Nile views—are the hushed and marbled Four Seasons Hotel Cairo at Nile Plaza (20-2-791-7000; fourseasons.com; doubles, $300–$900) and the much cheaper Nile Hilton (where I stayed), a 1950s classic on central Tahrir Square, across the street from the Egyptian Museum. The rooms are tired, but there's a great outdoor pool and a lively lobby filled with everyone from Cairo yuppies to Middle Eastern businessmen and expats. Ask for a high floor with Nile views (20-2-578-0444; hilton.com; doubles, $115–$165).