James Bond may play the tables and mingle with royals, but G. Y. Dryansky finds that the real Monte Carlo is a place for culture buffs, gastronomes, and…families

With world-class concerts in the lavish Monte-Carlo Opera House (92-16-22-99; opera.mc) and exhibitions of contemporary art and performances by Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo in the Grimaldi Forum (99-99-20-00; grimaldiforum.com), Monaco's famous resort town is shifting the focus from its gaming tables, poolside cabanas, and dance floors. Case in point: The Marlborough gallery showcases works by modern greats such as Joan Miró and David Hockney, as well as up-and-comers (4 quai Antoine 1er; 97-70-25-50); the Maretti Arte Monaco specializes in Italian artists (24 ave. Princesse Grâce; 97-77-17-77); Joel Girardi's Accademia Fine Art displays old masters of Russian Impressionism and French and Italian classics (37 ave. Princesse Grâce; 99-99-86-70); and Galerie Pastor-Gismondi shows contemporary artists working in diverse mediums (11 ave. Princesse Grâce; 93-25-27-14). Race car lovers should time their trip to coincide with the annual Formula 1 Grand Prix (93-15-26-00; acm.mc; May 25–28).

The country code for Monaco is 377. Prices quoted are for May 2007.

Lodging
Time was when you were out of the golden loop if you slept anywhere but at the Société des Bains de Mer's (SBM) traditional three: The Hôtel de Paris, the Hôtel Hermitage, and the Monte-Carlo Beach Hôtel (98-06-25-25; montecarloresort.com for all SBM ventures). The Paris is a rare authentic incarnation of luxury as conceived by the French in the 19th century, when their country was richer than the United States. A stay here is a memorable experience (doubles, $665–$1,012). But if you find it too formal, try the Hermitage. Despite its size, it has the feel of a Mediterranean villa (doubles, $600–$980). While the Beach Hotel dates from the early 20th century, it has none of the sharpness of Art Deco, giving off a certain suave modesty with its conservative, cheerful furniture. Situated away from the bustle of town, it is the ideal place to unwind, especially for families (doubles, $560).

Today, the favored contender against the SBM's monopoly of in-ness is the Hôtel Métropole. The exterior of this Jacques Garcia–designed property is a Belle Epoque masterpiece, with a lush pastiche of Napoleon III–style interiors, which Garcia made his signature at the Hôtel Costes in Paris. The location only rarely affords sea views (93-15-15-15; metropole.com; doubles, $383–$469).

Although hardly palatial, the suites-only Hôtel Port Palace has cachet: Leila Menchari of Hermès designed its interiors. Her minimalist decor is enriched with sharkskin elevator walls and Carrara marble bathrooms. The hotel is a favorite of the yacht crowd because of its proximity to the busy port (97-97-90-00; steinhotels.com; doubles, $400–$615).

Fontvieille's Columbus hotel is owned by the Scottish Formula 1 driver David Coulthard and brings an attractive crowd of sporty Brits to its charming chocolate and beige interiors, especially during the Grand Prix (92-05-90-00; columbushotels.com; doubles, $393–$526).

Serious gamblers averse to the light of day will prefer the humongous Fairmont Monte-Carlo. Tear yourself away from the tables at least once to enjoy its great sea views (93-50-65-00; fairmont.com; doubles, $600).

Across a cove is the latest SBM venture, the postmodern Monte-Carlo Bay Hôtel and Resort. Its spacious rooms overlook a Disneyland-style artificial lagoon, and an excellent buffet breakfast is served daily (doubles, $480–$800).

Guests of SBM hotels receive gold cards for free access to the Beach Club, the Casino, and the jitney that runs among them.

Dining
After reserving a table at Alain Ducasse's Louis XV, in the Hôtel de Paris, itinerant foodies start salivating months in advance (92-60-29-76; entrées, $96–$130). With a menu built around sea bass and beef, Bar et Boeuf, Ducasse's other venture, is favored locally over the Louis XV (Le Sporting; 98-06-71-71; entrées, $53–$80). Joël Robuchon, at the Hôtel Métropole, is particularly stylish, though pricey, at lunch. Try the veal chop with arugula and cumin and the chef's famous butter-packed mashed potatoes. Order the ricotta and almond parfait with apricot sauce for dessert (93-15-15-10; prix fixe, $214).

No baroque riffs of virtuosity can alter the quality of Rampoldi's classic Italian and French cooking. Whether a bowl of spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and basil, or a beef fillet of rare, rich flavor, each dish is a revelation. Though not cheap, Rampoldi is relaxed and intimate, decorated by rare Art Deco pieces (3 ave. des Spélugues; 93-30-70-65; entrées, $35–$69).

How many times in your life do you have the chance to eat borage ravioli? It is on offer at Pulcinella, alongside many other carefully prepared Italian dishes (17 rue de Portier; 93-30-73-61; entrées, $18–$36). Equally good Italian and French fare can be had at the beachside La Rose des Vents. Nibble on barbajuans, a specifically Monégasque dish of fried chard ravioli, as the sea nearly laps at your feet (Larvotto Beach; 97-70-46-96; entrées, $17–$23).

Il Triangolo looks like a cheap pizza joint, but the pizzas are a local favorite, as is the spaghetti with clam sauce (1 ave. de la Madone; 93-30-67-30; pizzas, $8–$20).

The Russians eating Iranian caviar at Petrossian might look down their noses at La Maison du Caviar, but it has been serving excellent, reasonably priced blinis with red caviar since 1954. The poulet à l'estragon that follows is especially recommended (1 ave. St-Charles; 93-30-80-06; entrées, $21–$33).

Nightlife
A typical Monte Carlo evening starts with tapas and drinks at the outdoor Sea Lounge in the Monte-Carlo Beach Hôtel (97-97-52-52). The younger crowd prefers the tapas at Karément, in the Grimaldi Forum, where the live-music performances and discos go on well into the night (99-99-20-20; tapas, $8–$16). Also in the Grimaldi, the trendy Zebra Square has late-night drinks on its outdoor terrace (99-99-25-50). Across the street, Sass Café is the glitziest place to eat, drink, and flash your feathers (11 ave. Princesse Grâce; 93-25-52-00). La Note Bleue is the fashionable place on Larvotto Beach. Owner Alain Tanzi is a jazz aficionado who books interesting musicians from around the world to entertain his young clientele (93-50-05-02).

Reading
For current goings-on and places to stay, the official Monaco site, visitmonaco.com, is a useful Web resource. Mary Blume's Côte d'Azur: Inventing the French Riviera gives an amusing account of Monte Carlo's character, including its foibles and all those who have made it famous over the years (out of print). The Côte d'Azur destination guide plenty of recommendations for Monte Carlo and its neighbors.
–Additional reporting by Beata Loyfman