Burmese tour guides, horrified by the extensive renovations to their most sacred city, are as outraged as the foreign archaeologists and historians. "So many buildings are spoiled that it's becoming even more difficult to imagine what the ancient city really looked like," says one guide who asked not to be identified for fear of reprisals. Further scarring the landscape are an 18-hole golf course, a garish archaeological museum, and a 200-foot observation tower.

Bagan's construction boom, which began in 1992 and shows no signs of abating, is being financed by private donors—usually Buddhists who believe that building a religious monument will shorten their journey to nirvana. White plaques outside most monuments display donors' names—Burmese military officers, the mayor of Yangon, a Japanese rotary club—and four thick books on sale at the archaeological museum show before and after photos, as well as the amount donated (new stupas go for $750; decaying temples cost about $2,700 to renovate). "This is religious piety gone crazy," says Stadtner. A local tour operator echoes the complaint of many: "Bagan doesn't need another temple. The money would be better spent on fixing the roads and giving people electricity."

Remarkably, the lushly painted frescoes inside several temples remain virtually untouched, except for those that were meticulously restored by UNESCO. "Despite all of the negative things," says Stadtner, "there are many wonderful sights to see in Bagan. It's still a magical place."
–Deborah Dunn

The Brief
Bagan Archaeological Zone

What's At Stake
One of the world's finest examples of medieval Buddhist art and architecture.

The Threat
Widespread, haphazard restoration and rebuilding of antiquities.

Best-Case Scenario
New construction ceases, and the government of Myanmar agrees to adhere to international standards of preservation and restoration.

Worst-Case Scenario
Unskilled, poorly trained laborers continue to build inaccurate replicas of ancient monuments until the site loses all historical merit.

The Basics

When to Go
It's mild and dry November through February.

Where to Stay
The riverside Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel has a small spa and a big pool (bagan-thiripyitsaya-sakura-hotel.com; doubles, $55–$85). Bagan Thande Hotel is more modest but still comfortable (hotelbaganthande.com; doubles, $28–$60).

Best Way to See It
Take a sunrise hot-air balloon ride (easternsafaris.com; $275 per person).

Don't Miss
The frescoes inside Abeyadana and Wetki-in-Gubyaukgyi temples and the views from Pyathada Paya.