The seat of Canadian government and one of the country's most civilized cities, Ottawa wins for all-around appeal. The squeaky-clean, family-friendly city has delights for all the senses—from tummy-pleasing treats to aural wonders

Ontario's second-largest city, which celebrates 150 years as Canada's capital this year, is having its moment. This former cultural wilderness is undergoing an impressive artistic renaissance, and officials plan to increase spending on culture by millions of dollars. Here, a sensory tour of a very engaging city.

See
Ottawa's museums recount stories of nation building, art, and anthropology. The two-year-old Canada War Museum examines the sweep of conflict from pre­confederation days to the present (800-555-5621; warmuseum.ca). The evolution of flying machines is the focus of the Canadian Aviation Museum (800-463-2038; aviation.technomuses.ca); bank notes and coins galore fill the Currency Museum (782-8914*; currencymuseum.ca); and across the Ottawa River in Gatineau, the Museum of Civilization charts the history of the First Nations peoples (800-555-5621; civilization.ca). The National Gallery of Canada is the country's premier showcase for visual arts and blockbuster exhibitions (990-1985; national.gallery.ca).

During the 45-minute-long Question Period at the House of Parliament, Canada's elected representatives discuss pressing issues. It's part theater of the absurd and part political posturing, with topics such as legalizing same-sex marriage and medical marijuana debated and probed. Question Periods begin at 2:15 p.m., Monday through Thursday, and at 11:15 a.m. on Friday. Visitors are welcome to observe from a public gallery, to which a limited number of people are admitted (starting in the morning) on a first-come, first-served basis.

Dr. Strangelove would feel right at home in the Diefenbunker, a four-story subterranean refuge that was secretly built at the height of the Cold War. Located 25 miles west of downtown and named for then prime minister John Diefenbaker, it has vintage computers, a decontamination chamber, an art gallery—and plenty of ashtrays (839-0007; diefenbunker.ca).

Hear
Pinchas Zukerman stirs the emotions while conducting the resident orchestra at the National Arts Centre (866-850-2787; nac-cna.com). The eclectic Zaphod Beeblebrox, in the ByWard Market, is a bit edgier—and livelier—with pop, punk, jazz, blues, and world beat bands performing nightly (562-1010; zaphodbeeblebrox.com).

Taste
Beavertail, a deep-fried whole-wheat pastry shaped, not surprisingly, like a beaver's tail, is the quintessential local treat, served warm, with a dusting of cinnamon and a spritz of lemon juice. Demand reaches fever pitch during Winterlude, the annual February carnival, when shacks along the Rideau Canal sell the pastry as sustenance to the crowds that skate, ski, slip, and slide their way through one of the world's coldest capital cities. More delicate palates can savor the city's finest croissants and pain au chocolat at Boulanger Français (119 Murray St.; 789-7941).