The city's seawall cum pedestrian path wends past some of Vancouver's greatest hits—here, a step-by-step guide. We also explore three of the most happening hoods before getting out of town—checking into a trio of luxury lodges and tasting our way through a rising wine region

Along the city's coast runs a seawall for walkers and bikers. Here is a guide to the sections that gird Stanley Park and downtown Vancouver.

1. Canada Place houses a cruise ship terminal, a convention center, and the Pan Pacific hotel, which boasts a heated outdoor pool and a full spa (662-8111*; panpacific.com; doubles, $275–$525). Across Burrard Inlet are North Vancouver and Grouse Mountain. Get a closer look from viewfinders on the promenade (3 minutes, $2).

2. Rooms at the Fairmont Waterfront have floor-to-ceiling windows and stunning views of the harbor or skyline (691-1991; fairmont.com; doubles, $335–$555).

3. The Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre is undergoing a $535 million expansion that will triple its space by the end of 2008 (vccep.bc.ca).

4. The maps at the Vancouver Tourist Information Centre are detailed and free (200 Burrard St.; 682-2222).

5. Floatplanes from Vancouver Island land and boats fill up at gas station islands in the harbor.

6. The Nike Runner's Lounge has local running maps, a bag check, and post-run massages (510 Nicola St.; 778-786-7463).

7. Coal Harbour is dotted with waterfront restaurants: Cardero's, for oysters and a beer (1583 Coal Harbour Quay; 669-7666; entrées, $8–$25); the upstairs patio of the 5,000-square-foot Lift, for contemporary West Coast cuisine by an outdoor fireplace (333 Menchion Mews; 689-5438; entrées, $19–$28); and the newest, Bravo Bistro, for Moroccan-influenced fare (550 Denman St.; 688-3714; entrées, $15–$35).

8. Cyclists wanting to ride the Stanley Park seawall enter here (bikes must go counterclockwise). Pick up a map at the Stanley Park Information Booth, to the left. The Vancouver Rowing Club, the city's oldest athletic club, is to the right.

9. Sit on a bench and gaze at the five sails of Canada Place and the Harbour Centre Tower. Behind you, seven totem poles honor the region's First Nations heritage. The nearby Brockton Visitors Centre has a gift shop with First Nations souvenirs.

10. The Nine O'Clock Gun, originally fired to signal the end of the day's salmon fishing, was brought to Vancouver in 1894. The cannon's 9 p.m. explosion is now a local tradition.

11. The life-size Girl in Wetsuit, by Hungarian sculptor Elek Imredy, appears to float on the water at high tide.

12. A slight detour uphill leads to the Prospect Point Cafe, which can overcharge for its soups, sandwiches, and nachos because the panoramic view of the Lion's Gate Bridge is priceless (669-2737; entrées, $8–$25).

13. According to legend, the Salish warrior Skals was immortalized for his selflessness as the basalt Siwash Rock.