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Bangalore Business Travel Primer

by Shoba Narayan | Published June 2007 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles

Where to See and Be Seen
To discuss patents with scientists from the Indian Institute of Science, space technology with Indian Space Research Organisation officials, or consulting assignments with professors from the Indian Institute of Management, show off insider knowledge by suggesting the colonialesque Koshy's Parade Cafe, a favorite of noncorporate Bangaloreans. Hatworks Boulevard, an old mansion that has been refurbished to accommodate high-end boutiques and a European restaurant, is a good place to see the old money of Bangalore, including the Bhatias (whose son Sabeer started Hotmail) and the Mallyas, Bangalore business's first family. Sunny's serves fresh Mediterranean food to consultants from Accenture, Mindtree Consulting, and Satyam. The Leela Palace's Zen, where IT millionaires hobnob with their friends, was recently listed in Forbes as one of India's most expensive restaurants-the fresh lobster with sevruga caviar costs $63, more than double the country's average monthly wage.

Where to Close a Deal
Jamavar, at the Leela, serves elegant Indian food in a grand colonial-style setting that makes guests feel like minor princes, attracting the likes of biotech queen and Bangalore resident Kiran Shaw, as well as Vijay Mallya, the force behind Kingfisher Airlines. The Bangalore Club is members-only but easy to get into as a corporate guest-everyone who is anyone in Bangalore belongs, and it is a stomping ground of the old rich in this fast-developing city. Winston Churchill owed dues, a fact that is proudly displayed in the club's guest book. New Zealand prime minister Helen Clark was spotted wooing Bollywood producers to shoot films in her country at the Royal Afghan over marinated meats and Afghani dishes. Taitai is where Infosys executives entertain guests with Pan-Asian food in a spare modern setting. Stylish Zaman, with its off-white curtains, private dining room, and decent wine list, is great for one-on-one interactions. The private-dining rooms at Szechwan Court at the Oberoi have discreet service and a fine wine list. Karavalli's excellent seafood draws frugal billionaires like Azim Premji, owner of Wipro and India's richest man.

Local Codes
Bangaloreans have a grace and gentility that the recent surge of moneymaking has not erased. Passionate gardeners and proud tree-huggers, they have a congenital inability to say no to a request, even when they aren't sure they can deliver. The city's pace is slower. Shops open at 10 a.m., sometimes 10:30. Restaurants, even the good ones, don't insist on turning tables. Word of caution: Always factor in extra time when going from meeting to meeting; roads are in variable condition, and traffic can be horrendous.

Airport Intelligence
The current airport is tiny and not a fun place to spend much time, so follow the lead of the bigwigs and use a private jet-a Gulfstream G550 is parked on the tarmac most days. True, the city is building a giant new airport outside city limits, slated to open in 2008, but for now, travelers must endure cramped spaces and limited facilities. Take a book. Or several.

The Three-Hour Tour
If making the most of your time is paramount, Bangalore Walks creates custom walking tours that take in gardens, churches, and Victorian heritage buildings (91-98455-23660). For a fascinating window onto the cultural crossroads that is current-day India, visit one of the shopping malls sprouting up in the city. Wait, it's not as corny as it sounds; malls are still a relative novelty in Bangalore, and they are not cookie-cutter. Expect plenty of curious contrasts that reflect India's ongoing transformation from developing to developed: Teenage girls in halter tops and their sari-clad grandmothers stroll around sharing a Pepsi; food courts offer everything from local chaat (a spicy Indian snack) to Mexican burritos; cleaners who earn a pittance talk on cell phones; wizened old men in traditional kurta pyjamas listen to MP3 players. Garuda and Forum are among the best malls, home to a span of bookstores, cafés, and shops selling local clothes, housewares, and knickknacks.

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