The poshest neighborhood south of the Han River, Cheungdam-dong, in Gangnam, is chock-full of excellent restaurants. But Palais de Gaumont stands out as the city's most famous French restaurant, if not its best. It can seem a tad stuffy-the interior is a little over-the-top, with chandeliers and large fixture mirrors-but the place attracts a diverse clientele despite its pricey menu.

Where to See and Be Seen
Gangnam, on the city's south side, is where the smart set go to preen. At the cavernous café Plastic, the cool crowd converges with studied indifference. Nearby is Gaon, a hot spot for gawking at fellow diners who come for the modern Korean fare and the interior fusing tradition and minimalism. In Gangnam's Cheungdam-dong area are luxurious cafés, like Mazia and Bloom Cafe, which draw fashionistas and Korean actresses such as Lee Mi-yeon and Kang Eun-bi. More celebrities can be found at Bar Hugh and Zen Hideaway. The newest hot spot in Cheungdam-dong is Tribeca, where celebrities mingle with newspaper and magazine editors. Both the actress Chae Rim and Korea's most famous fashion designer, Andre Kim, have recently been spotted there.

Where to Close a Deal
The Restaurant, in the Kukje Gallery, is a favorite haunt of the city's power brokers, who draw inspiration from the neighborhood: The restaurant looks over a wall into the Gyeongbok Palace, which was the seat of power of Korea's ancient dynasties. The city's top hotels have also traditionally been the setting for power breakfasts, lunches, and dinners; most have booths or private rooms. The visiting and local business and political elite can often be seen rising early for breakfast at the Chosun hotel's Ninth Gate restaurant. Frequently preceded by a round of golf, deals are often closed at exclusive Japanese restaurants with private rooms, including Namu at the W Hotel, the Ritz-Carlton's Hanazono, and the Shilla Hotel's Ariake (a Japanese restaurant) and Palsun (Chinese).

Local Codes
People dress conservatively, especially on the north side of the Han River. South Koreans tend to have strong feelings and attitudes toward the United States. If older Koreans remember America's help during the Korean War, younger Koreans have more mixed feelings toward American policy and America's military presence in the country. Uniformed U.S. soldiers based in Seoul used to party hard in the Itaewon neighborhood until a few years ago but are now under orders to lie low. So it's safer to avoid expressing any strong political opinions unless you know the person well.

Airport Intelligence
Incheon International Airport, which is about 90 minutes from Seoul by taxi or bus, is often ranked among the best airports in the world, and its terminals are crammed with shops, restaurants, and atypical amenities, including a sauna, a hair and nail salon, a 24-hour business center with wireless Internet access, laundry service, and even a dental clinic.

The Three-Hour Tour
If you're on the north side of town, stroll through the lively City Hall Park, then walk up Sejongno, the city's most historic thoroughfare, before arriving at the fourteenth-century Gyeongbok Palace. Grab a cab for a short ride to Samcheong-dong, a colorful neighborhood dotted with galleries, cafés, and tea houses, many housed in renovated traditional Korean houses. If business takes you south of the Han River, spend an hour or so people-watching along Rodeo Drive, lined with high-end shops, and linger in a café in Cheungdam-dong. Across the river is Hongdae, the enclave of Seoul's up-and-coming artists.