The spacious two-bedroom apartment at 290 Guidecca, on Guidecca Island, has a modern kitchen and comfortable furnishings. It overlooks the Giudecca Canal, and the view extends into the heart of the city. Strengths: Roomy; great views. Weaknesses: Cramped shower; slightly out of the way but a five-minute vaporetto ride from the center of town (39-348-873-6815; luisgu@tin.it; $216 per night, with a three-night minimum).

The beautiful private garden at 3099 Cannaregio affords the peace and quiet so often necessary after a few hours on the busy byways of Venice. This recently remodeled apartment sleeps up to four—on a pullout queen-size bed and a pullout full-size bed. Strengths: Modern bathroom; big open kitchen; very quiet. Weaknesses: A 20- to 30-minute walk to the Piazza San Marco (39-041-718-931; $270 per night).

Dining
Locals like to say that if a restaurant doesn't require reservations, it probably isn't worth eating at, which is why you'll have to book ahead for a table at Osteria da Rioba (insist on one outside). The place oozes Venice, with canalside seating and local specialties such as numerous preparations of cod with polenta and fresh squid-ink pasta. The only drawback: the loud live music that emanates from a nearby bar (2533 Cannaregio; 39-041-524-4379; entrées, $14–$47). Everything is simple at Osteria Anice Stellato, from the wooden tables to the fresh fish that's always cooked just right. Again, opt for a table along the canal (3272 Cannaregio; 39-041-720-744; entrées, $11–$47). Dropping in to Osteria Al Ponte for an informal meal with the locals is as close as you can get to being a Venetian. Order the cod and other cicheti (small dishes)—the daily pasta plate is often subpar (6378 Cannaregio; 39-041-528-6157; entrées, $8–$36).
–Eric Sylvers