In a city of hotels, which are the sure things? Steve Friess picks the winners

The Las Vegas hotel room was once a notorious dud, with gaudy wallpaper and ugly furnishings (purportedly to drive guests into the casino as fast as possible). In the city's latest incarnation, though, sleek digs combine high–tech amenities and skyline views, and on some upper floors—once the sole dominion of penthouse–dwelling bigwigs—lounges offer wrap–around neon panoramas. Of course, management is still using bells and whistles—gourmet restaurants, chic shops, hot shows—to draw guests to the tables. On the following pages, we give you the lowdown on hotels that are tops.

Bellagio
Easter 2004, the Bellagio had a power failure and had to close for four days. Any other hotel would still be recovering, but security had to control eager crowds the day the Bellagio reopened. Is it any wonder? The place is packed with treats—from the lobby's Dale Chihuly chandelier to the dancing fountains out front—and is so popular that the crowds can make it tough to enjoy (702–693–7444; www.bellagio.com; doubles, $159–$459). The scene: Elegance, Vegas style, typified by the subdued casino and the Gallery of Fine Art. Best for: An expensive, pull–out–all–the–stops date. Don't leave without: A caviar–infused facial at Spa Bellagio. Nonguests flock here for: The Conservatory, a seasonal garden of 7,500 plants tended by a team of 100 horticulturists. Quick tip: The Jean–Philippe Patisserie in the new Spa Tower has the world's largest chocolate fountain.
(Bar, gym, pool, spa, 24–hour room service)

Caesar's Palace Hotel & Casino
One of Vegas's original themed resorts, Caesars has stayed fresh despite its confusing Rome–wasn't–built–in–a–day layout. The hotel recently spent millions on its Colosseum stage for Celine Dion (her music plays constantly propertywide), and a luxury tower will open later this year. The scene: With new nightspots Pure and Pussycat Dolls Lounge, it's aiming for the hipster market. Best for: Browsing in the high–end Forum Shops. Don't leave without: Riding the curved escalator in the new Forum Shops expansion. Nonguests flock here for: Ms. Dion. Tip: The Seahorse Lounge has a 1,700–gallon tank containing hundred of the critters—and a waitstaff who can answer almost any question about them (800–634–6661; www.caesarspalace.com; doubles, $160–$300).
(Bar, gym, pool, spa, 24–hour room service)

Four Seasons Hotel
Separate from the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino but housed in one of its towers, this comforting retreat is just steps from the "real" Vegas experience. Rooms are surprisingly plain and out–of–date, but an $8 million renovation this year could fix that (702–632–5000; www.fourseasons.com; doubles, $325–$425). The scene: Business travelers like the luxury, and nongambling parents like the lack of a casino and the fact that their kids can use the Mandalay Bay's expansive pool area. Best for: Peace and quiet. You can also marry here without having to waltz through a casino in your finery. Don't leave without: Having the pool attendants squirt you with a mist of Evian. Nonguests flock here for: A prime cut at Charlie Palmer Steak. Quick tip: It's the only Strip property with a kosher kitchen for banquets.
(Bar, gym, pool, spa, 24–hour room service)