The southwestern Caribbean, along the Central American coast, has its own unique cultures and rhythms. There's no infrastructure linking the destinations; rather, in each country you fly into a major city, then head for the water—preferably in a four-wheel-drive. Lodgings, many of which are eco-sensitive if not indeed sustainable, range from the basic to the luxurious. If you prefer air-conditioning to sea breezes, ask if they have it before you book.

Prices quoted are for September 2007.

BELIZE
The southern districts have a lively mix of Mayan, Creole, and Garifuna communities that live between rain forest and reef. The country code is 501.

The Backstory: Dangriga's Gulisi Garifuna Museum tells the story of the Garinagu culture (502-0639). Nearby Garinagu Crafts sells artifacts, paintings, masks, and instruments (44 St. Vincent St.). Find handmade crafts at the Maya Center Women's Group Gift Shop, at the Cockscomb Wildlife Sanctuary (Mile 14, Southern Highway).

Posh in Placencia: The four-cabin Robert's Caye is one of two offshore offshoots of the Inn at Robert's Grove (523-3565; robertsgrove.com; cabins, $400 per person). The Balinese-chic Turtle Inn is a Gold List resort with an on-site restaurant serving fresh seafood and, being Coppola-owned, Italian fare (824-4912; turtleinn.com; doubles, $275–$350; entrées, $14–$38).

Simple Digs: Dangriga's Bluefield Lodge has six clean rooms (522-2742; toucantrail.com/bluefield-lodge.html; doubles, $21–$40). In Placencia, Ranguana Lodge's beach cabins have refrigerators and porches (523-3112; ranguanabelize.com; doubles, $80–$84).

Local Chic: Jazz-loving Americans run Punta Gorda's elegant Coral House Inn (722-2878; coralhouseinn.net; doubles, $83–$100).

Resort Duo: Almond Beach Belize has spacious modern rooms (866-624-1516; almondbeachbelize.com; doubles, $130–$180). Hamanasi Adventure & Dive Resort is more tropical, with beachfront rooms and tree houses (520-7073; hamanasi.com; doubles, $179–$221).

Eco-Mucho: Arrange a 4WD to get to Mama Noots Backabush Resort, in Mayflower Bocawina National Park (670-8019; mamanoots.com; doubles, $135).

Best Meal: Sample the seasonal menu at the new French Connection in Placencia—watermelon margarita, tomato and chèvre tart, terrific fish soup (523-3656; entrées, $10–$22).