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Ireland's Golden Age Ireland: A Country in Full—and in Its Prime

To a landscape that is one of Europe's most bewitching, add the Irish and their love of hospitality, and a cuisine that's rising to new heights. Be stirred

Few countries can provide such dramatic landscapes as Ireland. And in some of its wildest, most beautiful places, there is a new standard of hospitality. Owners sensitive to the value of their locations are creating lodgings of character and style, and often draw on the riches of local produce for their cuisines. Besides these newer spots, Ireland has no fewer than 12 properties on the 2007 Gold List.

The country code for Ireland is 353. Prices quoted are for September 2007.

County Clare
The coast has an acclaimed Greg Norman links course at the Doonbeg Golf Club, in Doonbeg, but you don't have to be a golfer to appreciate the obscenely comfortable beds, peat fires, sea views, and warm welcomes, or the great hiking on the cliffs at Kilkee (65-905-5602; doonbeggolfclub.com; suites, $560–$702).

Near the Cliffs of Moher, Moy House, in Lahinch, is a casual seaside inn that sweats the details. Its nine rooms are creaky and romantic; the best have fireplaces and look onto the Atlantic (65-708-2800; moyhouse.com; doubles, $286–$355). Barrtra, also in Lahinch, serves fine meals (657-081-280; barrtra.com; entrées, $24–$34).

County Cork
On the south coast, Ballymaloe House, in Shanagarry, is where Ireland's culinary renaissance began and where the Allen family continues the mission. No mod cons; just refined, country-style rooms, extraordinary gardens, and a kitchen that turns out some of Ireland's finest fare (21-4652; ballymaloe.ie; doubles, $355–$423; five-course prix fixe, $95).

Never mind that there are no locks and in some cases no showers in the six rooms at Ballyvolane House, in Castlelyons. You'll miss the sumptuous beds long after you've left. The formal garden has yellow laburnum and lavender wisteria (25-36-349; ballyvolanehouse.ie; doubles, $259–$273).

Creagh House, a gracious Georgian mansion in Doneraile, is ideally located to visit the attractions of southern Ireland. By the River Awbeg, it's a stone's throw from the first tee of Doneraile Golf Course, the best nine-hole in Ireland, and is adjacent to the finish line of the first Steeplechase (1752) and to the 400-acre Doneraile Park estate, which is open to the public (22-24433; creaghhouse.ie; doubles, $272–$328).

The problem with a two-story suite with a fireplace and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a lovely bay is that you might never step outside. But do, if only to go to the restaurant at Blairs Cove House, in Durrus, where they work wonders with Cork's finest cheeses, seafood, and meats, all served in a soaring stone dining room (27-61127; blairscove.ie; doubles, $245–$300; three-course prix fixe, $76).

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Prices and other information were accurate at press time, but are subject to change. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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