County Donegal
Families and foodies flock to Rathmullan House, in Rathmullan, for its beach on Loch Swilly, indoor pool, relaxed atmosphere, inventive meals, and beautifully restored public areas (74-91-58-188; rathmullanhouse.com; doubles, $245–$314; prix fixe, $68).

The Mill, in Dunfanaghy, easily the best value I found in Ireland, masters an unfussy perfection in its food and in its six simple bedrooms. The artwork, gardens, and setting make the place luxurious (74-913-6985; themillrestaurant.com; doubles, $129; prix fixe, $53).

In Ardara, a stay in the Green Gate's converted barns is not roughing it: The rustic rooms are spotless and cozy, with thoughtful touches such as wall sconces fashioned from seashells. If you're looking for luxury, go elsewhere, but for traditional Irish hospitality, this is your place (74-954-1546; thegreengate.eu; doubles, $122–$150).

County Galway
Designed by mad Irish milliner Philip Treacy in a gaudy palate of purple, indigo, and hot pink, Galway's G Hotel somehow works, in part because the rooms are decorated in relaxing tones and the service is efficient (91-865-200; theghotel.ie; doubles, $350–$630).

Ballinderry Park, in Ballinasloe, is a painstakingly restored Palladian gem (9096-86796; ballinderrypark.com; doubles, $204–$258).

In Recess, a remote enclave of Connemara, lost-in-time Ballynahinch Castle is on 450 acres of gardens and mountainous woodland. Book a renovated riverview room, and have at least one meal in the dining room (95-31-006; ballynahinch-castle.com; doubles, $344–$496; entrées, $28–$40).

The bedrooms at the ivy-covered Delphi Lodge, in Leenane, are bare-bones, but the public areas are welcoming and the setting of this lakefront fishing lodge backed up against a mountain is stunning. Communal dinners are superb, usually including something caught in the river that day (95-42222; delphilodge.ie; doubles, $272; prix fixe, $68).

The Quay House, on the water in the town of Clifden, is a favorite for its tastefully eclectic decor and gracious hosts (95-21369; thequayhouse.com; doubles, $204–$245).

A walk around Connemara with archaeologist and historian Michael Gibbons isn't dry or academic. The master storyteller brings the land and its past to life (walkingireland.com; tour, $414 for one to 15 people).