County Kerry
There's no finer setting in Ireland than that of Iskeroon, a beach house–chic three-bedroom B&B in Caherdaniel, set amid four acres of rambling subtropical gardens on the Ring of Kerry's tranquil Derrynane Harbour. Indoors, the palette is bold and warm; outside, the rugged coast gives onto wide, deserted crescents of sand. Seamus, the family dog, will lead you to hidden paths along the shore in the peerless morning light (66-947-5119; iskeroon.com; doubles, $204).

County Limerick
In Glin, pricey Glin Castle is worth it for the excellent service and the chance to stay in a grand private home surrounded by seven centuries of history (68-34-173; glincastle.com; doubles, $414–$661).

County Meath
Set on a hill overlooking the swift, brown Boyne River, Bellinter House, in Navan, is a stately Georgian mansion with a swinging soul. Just 45 minutes north of Dublin, it draws hipsters seeking refuge in its large, light-filled guest rooms and funkily elegant public areas and diversion in its indoor pool and striking new spa (46-903-0900; bellinterhouse.com; doubles, $306–$380).

County Sligo
The formal decor notwithstanding, Ballymote's Temple House has an easy, casual tone set by its young proprietor, Roderick Perceval, whose family has lived here for more than 800 years. The rooms are large, the meals excellent, and the home Ireland's largest, with hugely impressive grounds (71-918-3329; templehouse.ie; doubles, $217–$245; prix fixe, $57).

County Waterford
The dining room at Richmond House, an 18th-century home in Cappoquin, turns out consistently remarkable local fare. The rooms are simple, with Nos. 5, 7, and 10 among the nicest (58-54278; richmondhouse.net; doubles, $200–$240).

Dublin
The Shelbourne, Dublin's beloved "old lady on the Green," has been splendidly rejuvenated after a facelift costing more than $130 million (1-663-4500; marriott.com; doubles, $354–$574). The Brooks Hotel is quiet and central, with compact rooms (1-670-4000; brookshotel.ie; doubles, $218–$354). Aberdeen Lodge, my favorite for value and service, serves one of the best breakfasts in Dublin. A ten-minute taxi ride from the center of town, it's on a leafy street of private homes near the beach (1-283-8155; halpinsprivatehotels.com; doubles, $254–$308).

Dublin's three Gold List hotels are tried and true: the Four Seasons (1-665-4000; fourseasons.com; doubles, $600–$666), the Merrion (1-603-0600; merrionhotel.com; doubles, $630–$760), and the Westin Dublin (1-645-1000; westin.com; doubles, $480–$550).

Reading
The Pope's Children: Ireland's New Elite, by David McWilliams, is a brisk, fact-packed, and entertaining explanation of how the Irish became one of Europe's most prosperous people almost overnight (Gill & Macmillan, $18).

Visit hiddenireland.com for a collection of more than 30 wonderfully preserved historically significant homes whose owners warmly welcome guests; many also serve fine meals. The Web site irelands-blue-book.ie lists another group of fine country house accommodations and restaurants.