You'd have to be very determined not to find Japan—its flavors, sounds, smells, architecture, and people—in Hawaii. A full third of the islands' residents trace their roots back to Japan, from where their ancestors emigrated in the 19th century to work on the sugar and pineapple plantations, and the Japanese still make up 18.5 percent of the state's 7.4 million annual visitors. Today, looking for Japan in Hawaii falls into two categories: places catering to Japanese tourists, and those meant for Americans of Japanese ancestry.

If you want to catch the Japanese tourists in action, just thread through the streets of Waikiki, where clutches of designer boutiques—Prada, Chanel, Gucci, and so on—are now joined, happily, by a number of small T-shirt and streetwear shops owned by enterprising young Japanese expats. The most famous of these, 88 Tees, has a couple of locations, but visit the flagship for a full-on assault of young Japanese and California beach girls, all giggling over the store's wide collection of cute, colorful, witty T-shirts and bags (2168 Kalakaua Ave.; 922-8832). For a more traditional taste of Japan, visit Garakuta-do, a treasure trove of an antiques store selling everything from 19th-century tansu chests to strips of heavily embroidered gold-threaded obis (433 Koula St.; 589-2262). Finally, for a glimpse of how Hawaii's Japanese Americans once lived, trek to the North Shore and visit the Plantation Village, a fascinating living museum that re-creates a sugar plantation, including the workers' quarters, and offers provocative clues about the development of Hawaii's unique culture (94-695 Waipahu St., Waipahu; 677-0110).

The area code for Hawaii is 808. Prices quoted are for October 2007.

Lodging
Some of Oahu's best hotels are outside the narrow, seamy (but fascinating) stretch of Waikiki, most notably the JW Marriott Ihilani, on the North Shore (679-0079; marriott.com; doubles, $465–$625), and the Kahala Hotel in the plush suburb of Kahala, near Diamond Head (800-367-2525; kahalaresort.com; doubles, $395–$820). But Japanese tourists have always preferred Waikiki, with its proximity to the beach and the boutiques. They also have a deep appreciation for anything iconic, which might be why they particularly love three neighborhood landmarks. So hushed is the Halekulani, with its excellent spa, wide lawns, and insistently colonial airs, that it's easy to forget its location, down a somewhat depressing alleyway currently being annexed by rows of towering skyscrapers (800-367-2343; halekulani.com; doubles, $435–$705). A more affordable option is the Halekulani's sister hotel, the Waikiki Parc, just a few yards away; guests here have access to the Halekulani's beach and its common areas, plus they have the islands' first Nobu in their lobby (921-7272; waikikiparc.com; doubles, $164–$244). Next on every Japanese tourist's must-stay list is the Westin Moana Surfrider, mere steps from the famous Duke Kahanamoku statue that keeps watch over busy Kalakaua Avenue. Ask for a room in the old wing; the new ones are larger but somewhat soulless (922-3111; moana-surfrider.com; doubles, $395–$710). Finally, there's the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, with its signature carnation-pink facade and cheerful nostalgia (923-7311; royal-hawaiian.com; doubles, $445–$745). The W Honolulu, on the Diamond Head side of Waikiki, just across from beautiful Kapiolani Park and a two-minute stroll to Kaimana Beach, is a local favorite that's yet to be completely overrun by tourists (922-1700; starwood.com; doubles, $495–$610).