How To: Properly eat sushi in Japan

Being a foreigner in Japan is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, you're not expected to conform to all the intricate rules of etiquette that Japanese schoolchildren know by heart, whether they're at a café, on the street, or at home. You're a guest, and guests are treated very well. On the other hand, blending in isn't simply a matter of using chopsticks effortlessly or ingratiating yourself with a quick bow and a nice gift. Of course, the effort to go beyond these basics is very much appreciated, so the more you know, the better you'll come off.

The Table: The Sushi and Sashimi Meal and How To Eat It
(with expert advice from Hiroko Shimbo, author of The Sushi Experience, Knopf)

Ordering
Upon entering the restaurant, tell the chef, "Yuroshiku," which means, "Please take care of us." You should order as quickly as possible and eat the sushi the minute it comes out; the chef will like to move things along. "Don't chat with your friends," says Shimbo. "Just eat, and then say 'Yummy!'—something every chef likes to hear." There is no set sushi meal; rather, the chef will propose (and you should accept) the season's freshest offerings. Here are some of the things you might be served in autumn.

1. Clam or Mackerel
Your meal will probably begin with lighter, less oily fish and get fattier as it progresses. Don't eat nigiri with chopsticks. "Sushi is finger food," Shimbo says. And at any rate, the rice will be too loosely packed to hold with chopsticks. Pick up the piece with your thumb toward the bottom and quickly flip it over. Dip it gently, fish side down, in the soy sauce. The rice should not make contact with the sauce. Pop it into your mouth and eat it in one bite (some argue that it's preferable for the fish to land on your tongue first). Add wasabi VERY sparingly, if at all—using it implies the chef hasn't properly seasoned his rice. And if the chef has used a more complicated sauce for the nigiri, using too much soy sauce would also insult him. (In general, soy sauce is used much more sparingly in Japan than in the States.)

2. Sardine
Much of what you get will depend on what was fresh at the market that day. One thing you won't see in Japan is salmon. Do not ask for it; the chef will not be pleased.

3. Skipjack Tuna
An alternative to toro that's also cheaper and more seasonal. Your chef will be impressed if you forgo the default fatty tuna.

4. Sashimi
This should be eaten with chopsticks. If you want to season it, place a small dot of wasabi in the middle, fold the fish in half over it, and then dip a corner of the fish into the soy sauce. Do not season to taste if the sashimi comes with its own sauce, as does unagi, or eel.

5. Miso Soup
Generally, you will not be given a spoon. Fish out the bits of food with your chopsticks and then drink the liquid in a few quick drafts.