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Amazing Australia: Blue Mountains Amazing Australia: Gondwana Rainforest

by Jenni Baxter | Published January 2008 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles

Lush Life: The Gondwana Rainforests (formerly the Central Eastern Rainforest Reserves of Australia) comprises eight distinct regional groups scattered between Newcastle and Brisbane. Collectively, these regions tell the tale of the continent's evolution and are one of the few sites where you can walk amid living links to species that date back more than 100 million years. Here, how to enjoy the area's ancient history

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Walk beneath a waterfall
Picnic above Purlingbrook Falls, in Springbrook National Park (part of the Border Group), then wind down through dry eucalypt forest to the gorge, where you can stroll behind the 300-foot cascading falls.

Spy on birds
An extravaganza of Australia's finest feathered species, including satin and regent bowerbirds, king parrots, and green catbirds, can be spotted in Dorrigo National Park (New England Group). For the ultimate observation point, walk above the rain forest canopy along the 220-foot-long Skywalk. Tallawalla Retreat is a tranquil B&B with panoramic views (61-2-6657-2315; tallawalla.com; doubles, $122).

Wander through a seaside rain forest
The small but significant Iluka Nature Reserve (Iluka Group) has several strangler figs. Marvel first at the intricate latticework created over centuries as the fig strangled and hollowed out its host. Then step into the sunshine of Iluka Beach. Stay at the pristine Angourie Rainforest Resort, in Yamba (61-2-6646-8600; angourieresort.com.au; doubles, $134–$292).

View spring wildflowers
The flora in Gibraltar Range National Park (Gibraltar Range Group) is as diverse as the terrain. Hardy plants cling to granite outcrops, Christmas bells flourish in swamps, and the waratah (unique to this area) will tempt you to pick it in the dry forests. Look, but don't touch—fines apply. Tudor House is a beautiful B&B in nearby Glen Innes (61-2-6732-3884; tudor-house.com.au; doubles, $108–$135).

Gorge yourself
The beauty of the Great Escarpment's cliffs, waterfalls, and gorges is most dramatic at Wollomombi Gorge, in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park (Hastings–Macleay Group), where one of the continent's highest waterfalls plummets 670 feet. Stay at the charming Lindsay House, on spacious grounds in Armidale (61-2-6771-4554; lindsayhouse.com.au; doubles, $115–$162), and charter a Fleet Helicopters chopper for a scenic overview (61-2-6772-2348; fleethelicopters.com.au; from $162 per person).

Take on a mountain challenge
Mount Barney (Focal Peak Group) soars over 4,400 feet and offers rough terrain for serious hikers. The peak serves up sweeping views from Brisbane, in the north, to the massive Mount Warning Valley, an erosion caldera of an extinct volcano in the south. It's best climbed in the winter months of June through September. The eco-certified Mt Barney Lodge is a rustic retreat that has adventure activities like bush walking ($135) and rock climbing ($45) excursions (61-7-5544-3233; mtbarneylodge.com.au; doubles, $162).

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