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Amazing Australia: Blue Mountains Amazing Australia: Royal Exhibition Building and Carlton Gardens

by Joe Yogerst | Published January 2008 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles

The Star Chamber: A glorious relic in dizzyingly modern Melbourne, the Royal Exhibition Building was erected as the centerpiece of the 1880 International Exhibition. It has played myriad roles since then—site of the country's first parliament, a royal ballroom, army barracks—but today it's once again the consummate host of premier exhibitions

The Design
The German-inspired Rundbogenstil architecture (literally, "round arched style") combines elements of Byzantine, Romanesque, Lombardic, and Italian Renaissance styles.

The Cupola
Reportedly modeled on the fifteenth-century Duomo in Florence, it was restored in the early 1990s and coated with 22-karat gold leaf. The original dome had an outdoor promenade.

The Interior
During a decade-long makeover (1985–95), the building's interior was repainted according to its 1901 color scheme, with no fewer than 160 shades.

The Great Hall
Shaped like a massive cruciform, with elongated naves and towering transepts, the hall is the only surviving section of the original complex.

The Murals
Rendered by local artist John Ross Anderson for the opening of Parliament in 1901, the murals have a strong allegorical theme focusing on federation and government. Don't miss the work on the western arch—Queen Victoria, seated, greeting the other Australian colonies (fair maidens) and the mythical Britannia.

The Grounds
Created as a "pleasure garden" for the original exhibition, Carlton Gardens remains much as it was during Victorian times, especially the sprawling southern green space. The vibe is still thoroughly English, a royal palace garden transplanted to a far corner of the empire. Carriage drives and pathways wind around fountains and lakes, while century-old oaks tower over flower beds arranged to symmetrical perfection. The Melbourne Museum, the exhibition building's flashy neighbor, houses a fine collection of Aboriginal artifacts as well as a host of natural history and science exhibits.

Best Exhibitions in 2008
Victorian Hot Rod Show, January 25–27; admission, $18.
Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show, April 2–6; admission, $17.
Melbourne Art Fair, July 30–August 3; price not set at press time.
Melbourne Book Fair, October 3–5; price not set at press time.

FACT FILE
Where to Stay
The Park Hyatt Melbourne has retro Art Deco decor, Asian accents, and high-tech creature comforts (61-3-9224-1234; melbourne.park.hyatt.com; doubles, $528–$640).

Where to Eat
Founded by a pastry chef who came to Australia with the Italian Olympic team in 1956, Brunetti, two blocks from Carlton Gardens, serves excellent Mediterranean cuisine (194-204 Faraday St.; 61-3-9347-2801; entrées, $14–$26).

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