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Amazing Australia: Blue Mountains

by Dugald Jellie and Helen O'Neill | Published January 2008 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles

The Blue Mountains are not actually blue (the effect of eucalyptus-oil haze) and technically aren't mountainous. But their dramatic waterfalls, giant gorges, and gourmet retreats have lured visitors since Victorian times

Despite the Blue Mountains' proximity to Sydney, they host a wilderness so extreme that in 1994 shocked scientists found a grove of Wollemi pine, a tree dating back 110 million years. (The top-secret location is in Wollemi National Park; nationalparks.nsw.gov.au.) Prime lookouts include the aptly named Sublime Point, south of Leura, and the stunning-at-sunset Echo Point, in Katoomba, which takes in the Three Sisters rock formation, Mount Solitary, and the Jamison Valley. Nearby, Scenic World's glass-floored cable car floats above the landscape (61-2-4782-2699; scenicworld.com.au). Jenolan Caves, an hour's drive away, is one of the world's largest (jenolancaves.org.au).

Bush-walking is the best way to see the bewildering array of fauna, from arboreal mammals to rare amphibians. Trails are well marked for short jaunts such as Echo Point's Giant Staircase; midrange walks (the four-mile Grand Canyon track, with its tunnel under a waterfall); and the two-day Blue Gum Forest hike. Tour operators offer everything from Aboriginal culture–oriented trips, with Blue Mountains Walkabout Tours (61-408-443-822; bluemountainswalkabout.com; five-mile trek, $83), to cave trips, with Explore the Blue Mountains (61-2-4780-0000; explorethebluemountains.com; cave tour, $57–$68). Mountain bikers, horseback riders, and rappellers can tackle the rugged terrain head-on.

FACT FILE
How to go
From Sydney, it's a 40-mile drive along the scenic Cliff Drive. A double-decker train travels from Sydney's Central Station to Katoomba (cityrail.info).

Where to stay
Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa offers clifftop luxury (61-2-4780-1200; lilianfels.com.au; doubles, $345–$433).

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