Deep behind Spain's new wave of architecture is a complex culture that, with the arrival of the Moors from North Africa, produced some of the finest buildings in medieval Europe. While you're savoring the shock of the new, you can tap into a rich vein of traditional Iberian architecture through the chain of 85 paradors, hotels created through the notable restorations of castles, convents, palaces, and mansions (paradors.net).

The country code for Spain is 34. Prices quoted are for January 2008.

Santiago de Compostela
As the hub of a pilgrim industry, Santiago is organized around the half-million visitors who head to its Romanesque cathedral each year. The Plaza del Obradoiro, site of the cathedral, is one of the most impressive squares in Spain, well able to contain the lines of the devout and casual, strolling secular visitors. For a live preview, go to "Galicia" at webcamgalore.com.

Sometime—though very rarely—a hotel is both an architectural reason for going to a city and memorable for its quality. Such is the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos, a parador that claims to be the oldest hospice in the world. It was founded in the 16th century by Ferdinand and Isabella—for the use of pilgrims visiting the alleged tomb of Saint James, just yards away. Its plan, a cross within a square, creates four superb internal cloisters. The feeling is of mellow stone tempered by gardens, fountains, and (in the halls and rooms) rich carpets and red velvet. And since this is Galicia, it is the ideal place to sample the regional cuisine, either in the formal restaurant or, if the custom of late-night dining doesn't suit, in the companionable bistro that opens at the relatively early hour of 8 p.m. Seafood is the star, as is the city's specialty, almond tart, both to be consumed with the wonderful local white wine, Albariño (981-58-22-00; parador.es; doubles, $356–$432; entrées, $23–$42).

The rest of the old city has a number of narrow, appealing streets with bars, cafés, and restaurants but also places selling awful souvenirs for the pilgrims. A classic regional restaurant just outside the old quarter is Toñi Vicente (24 Calle Rosalia de Castro; 981-594-100; entrées, $18–$39).

Seville
Andalusia's capital is a perfect base for day-trips to Córdoba and Jerez. Soon, Málaga, on the Mediterranean, will be only an hour away by train instead of three.

Don't confuse your Alfonsos: The Alfonso X is a cookie-cutter modern hotel, fine for its kind, while the Alfonso XIII is peerless as a hotel and as architecture: Built in the 1920s in the style of a 14th-century Mudéjar palace, it demonstrates that with age, faux becomes legitimate in its own right. Inner balconies overlook an exquisite courtyard. Second-floor rooms have the best views. The restaurant is excellent (954-917-000; starwoodhotels.com; doubles, $975–$1,032; entrées, $26–$44).