Naples has a side that few visitors get to see. Tom Downey and Neil Gower's graphic novella takes you on a hunt for one of its treasures–the perfect slice of pizza–and on a delectable tour of other insider spots. Select the links at left to read the graphic novella as it appeared in the February 2008 issue of Condé Nast Traveler and see a video interview of author Tom Downey. Then explore the Places & Prices below to create your own Neopolitan mystery tour.

The uniqueness of Neapolitan pizza comes from its ingredients—tomatoes grown in the volcanic soil of Vesuvius, cheese made locally and served as soon as it's ready, crust formed from a storied starter. Eating in a Neapolitan pizzeria is always an informal and highly specialized experience: Some places make only two types of pies; others bake small pizzas to eat on the move, folded like a book (hence the name, libretti); and still others make only fried, stuffed pizza (ripieno fritto). Delizioso!

Perched between Naples and Ischia, Procida is utterly different from its popular neighbors in the Bay of Naples. Even in high season, it manages to maintain a local feel. During off-peak times, you may be the only non-native wandering among the tightly packed pastel buildings in the port of Corricella, a stunning little Mediterranean harbor.

The telephone code for Naples and Procida is 39-081. Prices quoted are for February 2008.

Lodging
The city's most elegant hotels, both on the waterfront, are the Grand Hotel Vesuvio (764-0044; vesuvio.it; doubles, $368–$485) and the Excelsior (764-0111; excelsior.it; doubles, $442–$545). Rooms have views of Vesuvius, Ischia, and Capri. Nearby is the charming Parteno B&B, with its spectacular Azalea room (245-2095; parteno.it; doubles, $184–$250).

Costantinopoli 104, across the street from the beautiful Piazza Bellini, is a converted villa with a garden in the courtyard and a swimming pool out front. Breakfast is simple, the owner welcoming and informative (557-1035; costantinopoli104.com; doubles, $227). Another convert, San Francesco al Monte is a former convent perched above the port on the Corso Umberto IV—a great location for looking out onto the city and a short funicular or taxi ride away from most places you'll want to visit (423-9111; hotelsanfrancesco.it; doubles, $190–$432).

The Palazzo Alabardieri, the best hotel in the upscale waterfront neighborhood of Chiaia, is on a pedestrian street, steps from Naples's hopping bar scene. The only downside is that the rooms overlook an interior courtyard (415-278; palazzoalabardieri.it; doubles, $249–$440). The Grand Hotel Parker's, also in Chiaia, was bought by an Englishman after its Italian owner lost it in a card game. The rooftop bar is fantastically old school, but the rooms are a little shabby for the price (761-2474; grandhotelparkers.com; doubles, $322–$528).