Good budget rooms can be found at the Hotel Correra 241, on a small street just opposite the Piazza Dante. The finest lodgings have high ceilings and tiny balconies (195-62-842; correra241.it; doubles, $110–$175). My Home Your Home arranges short-term rentals of furnished apartments. Request air-conditioning if you'll be visiting in summer (282-520; myhomeyourhome.it; apartments, $660–$1,400 per week).

Pizza and Beyond
In 1889, chef Pietro Colicchio created a mozzarella and tomato pizza for the visiting queen Margherita di Savoia. Her Highness favored it, and the pie took her name. Since then, Pietro's descendants have been making royal pies at Pizzeria Brandi (Salita S. Anna di Palazzo; 416-928; pizzas, $12). One block from the Via Tribunali, you'll find what may be the oldest surviving pizza hut, Lombardi (59 Via Benedetto Croce; 552-0780; pizzas, $8–$10). It even serves pies for lunch, unlike the Michelin-listed Ciro a Santa Brigida, where you should go for dinner (73 Via Santa Brigida; 552-4072; entrées, $18–$25).

The two most popular classic pizzerias in Naples are conveniently located across from each other in the heart of the Old City: Da Michele has come to define the Neapolitan pizza, offering just two kinds of pie (1/3 Via Cesare Sersale; 553-9204; pizzas, $6–$7); Trianon uses mozzarella di bufala in its best pizzas (42/46 Via Pietro Colletta; 553-9426; pizzas, $8–$10). For a great neighborhood spot, try Pizzeria Starita (27/28 Via Materdei; 557-3682; pizzas, $8–$10).

Authentic Neapolitan peasant cuisine is best at Mimì alla Ferrovia (21 Via Alfonso d'Aragona; 553-8525; entrées, $20–$25). Down an alleyway opposite the hospital, on the edge of Montesanto and the Quartieri Spagnoli, is Trattoria Casillo Enzo. There's no sign out front, but look for a shrine and a vini e oli shop—or just follow the crowds (25 Vico Rosario a Portamedina; 552-2248; entrées, $15-$20). The owner of La Stanza del Gusto was born and bred in the Quartieri Spagnoli and has an exquisite tasting menu that riffs on Neapolitan traditions (21 Vicoletto Sant'Arpino; 401-578; entrées, $17–$27).

Osteria da Tonino, in trendy Chiaia, has a great-value lunch. The waiter may inadvertently bodycheck you to get through the crowd, but the menu, which varies daily, is glorious (47 Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia; 421-533; entrées, $10–$12). The bustling neigborhood around the central train station is worth a visit for the pastry at Attanasio. Try the traditional sfogliatella riccia or the flat-crusted sfogliatella frolla (2-3 Vico Ferrovia; 285-675). Bar Mexico may serve the finest coffee in the world. Espressos come zuccherato (laced with sugar) or amaro (unsweetened). The most convenient branch is in the Piazza Dante (549-9330).