Getting here involves some puddle-jumping. International flights connect from the 32-island nation's neighbors—Barbados, Grenada, Martinique, St. Lucia, and Trinidad—to E.T. Joshua Airport, outside the capital of Kingstown, on St. Vincent. But while the three bigger Grenadines (Bequia, Mustique, and Union) have airstrips, most transport is via water.

Ferries link the four largest islands. But if you want to discover the chain's smaller members—many of which are privately owned islets, nature sanctuaries, solitary outcrops, or unpopulated dots worthy of a New Yorker cartoon—you'll have to bring your own kayak. Some resorts have sit-atop models that are suitable for venturing just off the beach, but to go between islands you'll need something more seaworthy. Vancouver-based Feathercraft's folding K1 Expedition is up to the task (feathercraft.com; $5,185). An option requiring less exertion is a custom tour on a chartered yacht. The Moorings, a decades-old veteran, sails out of Canouan (784-482-0653; moorings.com; charters, $525–$1,370 per day for seven days). Herewith, a Grenadines primer to help you chart your course.

St. Vincent
The main island gets most tourists en route to the beaches of the Grenadines, but wild and rugged St. Vincent is a draw in its own right for hikers. Routes include a path up La Soufrière volcano, the Vermont Nature Trail in the foothills of Grand Bonhomme Mountain, and walks across Kingstown's 20-acre Botanical Gardens (784-457-1003). The Petit Byahaut resort has five open-air cottages, excellent food, and amazing snorkeling off the beach of a secluded bay (no phone; outahere.com/petitbyahaut; doubles, $390). Kingstown's efficient and centrally located Haddon Hotel has spacious rooms and is a good base from which to check out the island (784-456-1897; newhaddonhotel.com; doubles, $105). Just south of Kingstown, the one-resort dot of Young Island is so close to St. Vincent that getting onto the boat which carries you there takes longer than the ten-minute crossing. On its 35 acres of tropical gardens are a pool, a floating beach bar, a lighted tennis court, and 30 bright cottages with louvered windows and wicker furnishings (784-458-4826; youngisland.com; doubles, $535–$620).

Bequia
Whaling, shipbuilding, and fishing are integral to life on Bequia (pronounced BECK-way). Port Elizabeth, at the end of Admiralty Bay, is a favorite spot for European yachtsmen to drop anchor. Vacationing Brits join them at Bequia's surprisingly fine restaurants, such as the Porthole (in town), which serves good grilled swordfish (784-458-3458; entrées, $11–$20), and Moskito, at the Friendship Bay Hotel, on the other side of the island, which has a popular $30 lobster feast on Wednesdays (784-458-3222). For those not spending the night on their own boat, one of the few places to stay on land is the Firefly Hotel, an eight-room hillside inn that's existed since the late sixties (784-458-3414; fireflybequia.com; doubles, $575–$875).