Cap-Ferrat is a discreet sideshow to the more blatant excesses of the French Riviera. Since the turn of the 20th century, it has experienced several waves of "colonization," from itinerant European aristocrats to newly minted millionaires. Today, the cape is more diverse than ever: Wealthy Russians and Middle Easterners mingle with families who have vacationed there for decades.

But in addition to enjoying the seaside, be sure to tour architectural sites such as the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. The Hispano-Mauresque masterpiece is the most expressive example of late-19th-century grandeur on the cape. It was inhabited by Baroness Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild, who collected exceptional 18th-century furniture. The villa grounds are home to seven gardens, each designed in a distinct style: French traditional, Florentine, Spanish, exotic, lapidary, Japanese, and Provençal (4-93-01-33-09).

The country code for France is 33. Prices quoted are for August 2008, the upcoming high season.

Lodging
Just a few steps from the beach—where it has a private row of umbrellas, mats, and chaise longues—the Hôtel Royal Riviera has a location that is its biggest advantage. Grace Leo--Andrieu, creative consultant and president of GLA International, brings her signature flair to the neo-Hellenic/Art Deco remake of the main building, as well as to the replica of the Provençal manor in the garden (4-93-76-31-00; doubles, $524–$1,192). Despite ongoing renovations—including the addition of eight suites and a spa—the 1908 Grand-Hôtel du Cap--Ferrat is a landmark of the lavishness of the great Riviera hotels. It's far from the beach, but a splendid pool set in the garden overlooking a scenic piece of Mediterranean shore will make you forget that. The hotel will close on September 30 to complete the renovations (4-93-76-50-50; doubles, $800– $2,254).

In response to the operatic glamour of the Grand, La Voile d'Or, in the port of St-Jean, became the intimate spot for the wave of jet-setters who claimed the cape for themselves after World War II. The hallways can seem submarine-ish, but the hotel's understated luxury and the relaxed suavity of the owner still make La Voile as close to a favorite celebrity hideaway as any place on the coast. Be careful about costly extras in the restaurant (4-93-01-13-13; doubles, $648–$1,280).

The intellectual's and artist's answer to the super-rich on Cap-Ferrat, the Hôtel Brise Marine is a former villa converted to a six-room hotel with non-intimidating rates and a harbor view. The breakfast room recalls a student café, the sitting room is small and kitsch, but the bedrooms are airy, comfortable, and well-kept (4-93-76-04-36; doubles, $218–$250).

North of the cape, in the seaside resort of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, the 37-room La Réserve de Beaulieu is a standout. It's pricey in high season but worth it for the location and the impeccable service (4-93-01-00-01; doubles, $829–$1,835). Originally the dacha of a 19th-century Russian prince, the whitewashed villa Cap Estel, in Èze-Village, maintains its air of exclusivity with a private beach and a restaurant that gives priority to guests (4-93-76-29-29; doubles, $843–$1,163; prix fixes, $110 and $138). Nearby, the Château Eza makes the most of its stunning views with balconies overlooking the Mediterranean and a Michelin-starred terrace restaurant (4-93- 41-12-24; doubles, $530–$900; main courses, $58–$68). The charmingly gothic Château de la Chevre d'Or is the best value in Eze (4-92-10-66-66; doubles, $428–$1,054).

Dining
Dining under the stars at the Grand is a pleasure (main courses, $113–$129), although a meal of well-grilled, tasty sea bass at Le Sloop is just as satisfying and much less expensive (Au Nouveau Port; 4-93-01-43-63; main courses, $32–$47). The Capitaine Cooke, a far simpler place, comes recommended by Yves Maîtrehenry (11 ave. Jean-Mermosz; 4-93-76-02-66; main courses, $34–$40). The town's newest gourmet restaurant, La Table du Cap, opened last July in the space formerly occupied by Le Provençal. Young chef Laurent Poulet serves a sophisticated market menu that sometimes overindulges in minimalism (2 ave. Denis-Séméria; 4-93-76-03-97; main courses, $50–$55). La Plage de Passable, a restaurant at the beach of the same name, serves both snacks and real meals with views of Villefranche. A dish of delicious portobello mushrooms and girolles followed by grilled scampi from Sicily and a glass of Minervois white wine will set you back about $65 (4-93-76-06-17).

Reading
Mary Blume's Côte d'Azur: Inventing the French Riviera is full of erudite humor and anecdotes that factually define the legend (out-of-print). F. Scott Fitzgerald's Tender Is the Night is probably the best fictional evocation of the sensuousness and splendor of Cap-Ferrat.

Both the Blue Guide's Provence and the Côte d'Azur ($25) and Time Out's South of France, Provence & Côte d'Azur ($17) have worthwhile insights.