But if privacy is what you want, the Calistoga Ranch (another member of the Auberge family) is the place to go; it's where Mick Jagger and Will Smith come for a getaway, since only overnight guests are allowed on the property. The vibe is surprisingly casual; there are equal parts indoor and outdoor spaces in the lobby, the gym, the spa, and even the cedar-shingled guest cabins (800-942-4220; calistogaranch.com; doubles, $650-$850). For a more personal touch, head to Chateau de Vie, just outside Calistoga at the northernmost tip of the valley. This four-room B&B has a sophisticated feel and its own vineyard of Cabernet, which you can reach out and touch from the carriage house suite (707-942-6446; cdvnapavalley.com; doubles, $229-429).

Meadowood is a New England-style country club with more amenities than you'll find anywhere else in the valley—including a nine-hole golf course, tennis courts, pools, two croquet lawns, a spa, and a labyrinth. While the service is impeccable, though, it's rather stilted and insincere. The restaurant recently earned two Michelin stars and promptly lost its chef; we're hoping his replacement brings some warmth to the overly formal dining room (800-458-8080; meadowood.com; doubles, $575-$1,350).

Now on to food: named for the late, great Julia Child, Julia's Kitchen is the on-site restaurant at Copia: The American Center for Food, Wine, and the Arts, where Child was once an advisor. The preparations are all French, many from Child's cookbooks, and much of the produce comes from the center's organic garden. This place has more heart than the rest of Copia, but seems to have slipped a bit in the last few years (500 First St.; 707-265-5700; entrées, $19-$35). The newest player in Napa's culinary scene, Ubuntu, is named for an African Bantu term roughly translated as "humanity toward others." Apparently that includes farm animals—all the dishes are vegetarian—and trees—the floors and furnishings are made from reclaimed wood. Though the cool plates on the tapas-like menu tend to lack flavor, the hot offerings (particularly the signature cauliflower in a cast iron pot) are full-bodied, and the desserts absolutely divine (1140 Main St.; 707-251-5656; entrées, $8-$19). The Rutherford Grill is a local hangout owned by the people behind the nationwide Houston's chain. Grab a booth or a seat at the horseshoe-shaped bar to sample from the beef-heavy menu (1180 Rutherford Cross Rd.; 707-963-1792; entrées, $10-$32). If you're looking for a foreign flavor other than French, try the Wappo Bar and Bistro in Calistoga, where the dishes draw inspiration from exotic spots like Brazil, Singapore, Thailand, and India. The chiles rellenos is a crowd favorite, and much deserving of the title (1226B Washington St.; 707-942-4712; entrées, $13.50-$24).