14 Perfect Days in Hawaii
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Bonus Trip: Kauai
Day 1: Waimea Canyon
The oldest Hawaiian island, Kauai has matchless natural beauty but far fewer lodging options than its more developed neighbors. The two swankest accommodations are the Princeville Hotel, on the misty and relentlessly romantic North Shore, and the Grand Hyatt, a massive resort complex on the sunnier south shore. Since the Princeville Hotel will close for renovations beginning in September 2008, re-opening in mid-2009 as a St. Regis property, the Grand Hyatt is currently the island's top dog. With more than 600 rooms, five restaurants, and an ever-changing list of on-site activities, the Grand Hyatt is a destination in itself, though best suited for families (the serpentine swimming pool is kid heaven and Camp Hyatt runs programs daily for children over the age of 3) and spa junkies (16 brand-new treatment bungalows and a mile-long spa menu) (808-742-1234; kauai.hyatt.com; doubles, $450-$793). For those who prefer more intimate accommodations, consider booking a house or cottage rental with the five-year-old company Pure Kauai. Most of the properties on offerfrom kitted-out celebrity hideaways to modest love nestsare on the North Shore, as are the hikes, surf lessons, kayak trips, and other private excursions that Pure Kauai will arrange for its clients (808-828-0380; purekauai.com; lodging prices range from, $385 nightly for a two-bedroom condo to $6,400 nightly for a four-bedroom estate).
Regardless of where you stay, set aside your first full day to drive to the far west side of the island and up to the ridge of Waimea Canyon, smaller than Arizona's massive chasm but no less spectacular. Several lookouts offer prime views into the gaping mouth of the canyon, but if you have time for just one stop, Waimea Canyon Overlook won't disappoint. A few miles up the road, at the entrance to Koke'e State Park, lies a perfect picnic spotan expansive grassy lawn beside the small natural history museum. Consider picking up lunch provisions from Mark's Place, a takeout spot hidden away in an industrial section of Lihue (1610 Haleukana St.; 808-245-2522; plate lunches, $6-$7). A few miles up the road from the picnic stop lies the Pu'u o Kila Lookout and the start of the four-mile Pihea Trail, both affording sublime views of a deeply creased valley plunging into the oceanbut only if the weather cooperates. Brace yourself for heavy fog, but go anywayit's worth the risk. If the chill and drizzle force you out of the park early, head back to the perpetually sunny town of Waimea and stop at JoJo's for a lilikoi shave ice (Kaumualii Hwy.; 808-635-7615) or slices of sugared guava at Kauai Granola (9633 Kaumualii Hwy.; 808-338-0121), before returning to your hotel for dinner.
Day 2: Na Pali Coast
Today you'll be seeing the island's other star attraction, the Na Pali Coast from aboard a sailing catamaran. Capt. Andy's five-hour snorkeling excursion shoves off from the Port Allen marina on the south shore around 7 A.M., skirts the empty beaches of the west coast and sails up north to the velvety cliffs of Na Pali. Vibrantly colored fish swarm this magnificent coastline's many coves and reefs in summer; all other times of year, the snorkeling takes a back seat to the setting and frequent cameos by pods of spinner dolphins (808-335-6833; napali.com; snorkeling excursion, $139)
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