DO examine the fish. Often the waiter will show it to you for your selection while it's in the freezer.

DO hail the waitstaff if you need the check. Greece is not a hurry-up culture, and they're not being rude, just letting you take your time.

DO tip, but not very much. A service charge of about 12 percent is usually included (check the bill), so just add another 10 percent.

DON'T be shocked if people smoke in the nonsmoking section. Kochilas has even had cigar smokers in her restaurant (she asked that they desist).

DON'T flat out refuse food. It's a sign of disrespect and a rejection of Greeks' philoxenia (hospitality toward strangers). The farther south you go, the more insistent your host will be upon seconds or thirds—especially in Crete, where you should arrive hungry. "Cretans are hospitable almost to the point of being overwhelming," says Kochilas.

DON'T expect a pre-dinner drink to be offered in a restaurant (although there will usually be before-dinner cocktails in someone's home). After- dinner drinks are more common, although a little ouzo at the beginning of the meal is sometimes ordered, too.

DON'T call Greek coffee Turkish coffee despite the fact that it's the exact same thing. But feel free to have it—or any other kind of coffee—with your dessert.

DON'T take your shoes off when visiting someone's home unless specifically requested to do so. Here, being allowed to remove your shoes is a sign of respect from the host, not the guest.

DON'T come empty-handed to a party, but don't bring an elaborate gift, either: Greeks can feel duty-bound to reciprocate. Flowers are good, though chrysanthemums or carnations, which are given at funerals, are not. Wine or sweets are also fine choices.

DON'T order just mezes. "That's not cool in Greece," says Alec Mally, who worked in the foreign service in Greece for years.

DON'T make after-dinner plans. Whether you dine in someone's home or out, you'll likely be there for the rest of the night.

DO'S And DON'TS

DO make a nod to the ancients' contributions to democracy and Western society. An American wouldn't expect to be complimented on the Constitution, but Greeks take great pride in their heritage—just look at the Acropolis looming over the center of Athens.

DO take them up on fish, even if it isn't your thing: Fish is not only a particular point of pride, it's usually fantastic and fresh. "The place has delicious fish! I will take you," is something former foreign services officer turned businessman Alec Mally heard constantly from associates.

DO take your time getting to know colleagues and acquaintances. "Expect a slightly standoffish attitude initially," says Mally, who often winds up on tedious factory tours. And, says TV producer Dorie Klissas, who might have to endure three coffee-drinking sessions to get the okay for a camera setup, "You must meet people face-to-face."