DON'T bring up Cyprus or the Greek Civil War—especially if you don't want to be on the defensive. "Most people are likely to blame Americans for one of the things that caused the Cyprus situation," says Mally.

"DON'T kiss your dog," says John Sitilides, who works on foreign policy issues through the U.S. State Department. "And don't talk to it." Greeks are of the mind that "pets are not humans, nor should we pretend they are."

SEXUAL POLITICS

If traveling alone, women should expect some mild flirtation and—in many cases—questions about why they're traveling alone. TV producer Dorie Klissas once lugged camera equipment beside a man who, rather than offering to help, loudly asked why she didn't have a man helping her.

The sexes don't mingle as much in Greece as they do here, and when they do, they stick with people they know. Klissas remembers going to nightclubs and not being approached by a single man. "Usually," she says, "you go out with a male friend, and by the end of the night he's picking you up." None of this means that you must worry about your safety or dress particularly modestly other than for church. "Greek women are much more provocative dressers than men," says chef Diane Kochilas.

Men are fairly warm with one another, sometimes kissing friends on the cheek. But unlike women, they won't kiss every acquaintance and won't be seen holding hands with each other in the street.

Women are generally the ones in the kitchen during dinner parties. A man offering to help the hostess wash dishes would be roundly dismissed, but not a woman

THE LESSON
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL

Friends and acquaintances often touch one another on the shoulders and back while talking. Personal space is small in Europe, and in Greece even more so.

Sharing cabs is common: Feel free to hail one with passengers in it, and don't be put off if you're joined by strangers en route. Additionally, if the cabdriver isn't going where you are, don't be surprised if he declines to accept you as a fare.

Going to a store can be an ordeal for the casual browser, who will likely be closely followed by a salesperson and urged not to leave empty-handed. Keep reiterating that you're only browsing.

When TV producer Dorie Klissas was in Greece to organize Katie Couric's Olympics coverage, she was constantly asked about her own salary and marital status. (One morning-show host even questioned her on the air.) Given the disparity in living standards, Greeks probably don't want to know the truth. "You should be diplomatic about money," Klissas advises, "and never boast."

THE LESSON
Time Is Relative

The culture may be changing, but the European 15-minutes-late rule can be extended here to a half hour. "I was two hours late on my wedding day," says Diane Kochilas, "and my priest had not yet arrived." Tardiness is especially tolerated in Athens, where the traffic is among the world's worst. This doesn't mean it's okay to be an hour tardy; if you're stuck, call to explain. The key thing is not to be too annoyed when others are late. Expect a schedule that's best characterized as Spanish lite. Dinner is eaten at around 9 p.m., and it's fine to call someone's home up until 11—but not between 3 and 5 p.m. On weekends, many people still nap during what's traditionally called "the hour of communal silence." Business meetings tend to start on time. Business relationships are far more Westernized (i.e., punctual) than casual ones. Always confirm the day before: It's expected, and you may learn that the meeting time has been moved up (the assumption being that you'll find out when calling to confirm).