On mid-April, the United States began to fast-track visas for Cubans wanting to come here to visit family: The time to process applications was reduced from years to months. At press time, no comparable plan is being entertained for the reverse trip--Americans who want to see Cuba. That can be done legally only with a visa, and visas are generally issued just for professional or family reasons. While tourism is not specifically outlawed, spending money on the island is (search Cuba at travel.state.gov): "Transactions related to tourist travel are not licensable. This restriction includes tourist travel to Cuba from or through a third country such as Mexico or Canada. U.S. law enforcement authorities have increased enforcement of these regulations at U.S. airports and pre-clearance facilities in third countries."

Nevertheless, tens of thousands of Americans visit Cuba every year. In 2005, an estimated 101,000 Americans saw Cuba, up to a third of them illegally. They fly to Havana via Cancún, Grand Bahama, or any non-American airport, and take care not to get their passport stamped at José Martí International Airport.

Even with a visa, however, travel to Cuba presents at least one unique challenge: U.S. dollars are not accepted--in November 2004, Cuba declared the dollar no longer legal tender. Nor has it ever been possible to charge anything with a credit card issued by a U.S. bank. Most visitors, therefore, bring euros or Canadian dollars to exchange for CUCs (Cuban convertible pesos). And most plan their trip to Cuba through a travel specialist who pre-pays hotels so they can use vouchers. A list of authorized U.S. travel agents can be found under "Cuba Sanctions" at treas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac.

Do not expect gourmet dining in Cuba. Meals tend to be simple and not particularly ample. Fish is usually the best choice.

The country code for Cuba is 53. Prices quoted are for July 2008.

Lodging & Dining

Havana has had something of a hotel renaissance in the past decade or so. The Hotel Saratoga opened in Havana in 2005 to much acclaim. On the tree-lined Paseo del Prado, it is within walking distance of the Malecón, the Parque Central, and Old Havana. It is also, for Cuba, extraordinarily expensive (7-868-1000; doubles, $297-$356).

Several old hotels merit consideration in Old Havana: The beautiful 27-room Art Nouveau-style Hotel Raquel has a charming rooftop terrace (7-860-8280; doubles, $216). The Palacio O'Farrill occupies a neoclassical palace very near the cathedral (7-867-1037; doubles, $140–$151). The Santa Isabel has seen better days, but there is no sweeter location, between the lovely Plaza de Armas and the inlet (7-860-8201; doubles, $260). Finally, the Conde de Villaneuva is small, charming, and usually booked up (7-862-9293; doubles, $140-$172).

A clutch of hotels cling to the Parque Central, including the NH Parque Central, which has good service, big rooms, and a rooftop pool (7-860-6627; doubles, $292). The Hotel Telégrafo, which reopened in 2001 with a colorful contemporary look, has 63 simple rooms (7-861-1010; doubles, $140). The Hotel Inglaterra, Cuba's oldest (1875), really needs an overhaul, but its outdoor café is a good place to watch Havana go by (7-860-8595; doubles, $130). The Hotel Plaza is big, busy, and convenient, though the rooms are modest at best (7-860-8583; doubles, $130).

Finally, Havana's most famous lodgings are in the downtown area called Vedado. The Hotel Nacional is a national treasure in terms of architecture and landscaping but cannot be recommended for its rooms or service, unless you get a great deal (7-836-3564; doubles, $184). The Habana Libre was Fidel Castro's first headquarters as president in 1959, when it was the Havana Hilton. It has been improving in service and quality since it was acquired by Sol Meliá in 2000 (7-834-6100; doubles, $216).

Varadero Beach has dozens of choices, but the Hotel Mercure Cuatro Palmas can be recommended for its colonial style, small size, and good rates (45-667040; doubles, $160). Elsewhere in the country, you'll find decent places to stay, but there really are no standout hotels yet, and probably won't be for some time to come.

Beyond the hotels, there is little decent dining in Cuba. Enter paladars--private, licensed restaurants that cater mostly to foreigners. Most are located in houses or apartments, so you'll be eating in a living room, maybe even a bedroom (and your cook might be a physicist, your server a historian). For the freshest food, your best bet is to order fish. Paladars open and close frequently, but touts on the street will let you know where they are (entrées typically range from $5 to $8).

Reading, etc.

The Lonely Planet guides to Cuba, both in print ($22) and online (lonelyplanet.com), are recommended. Just out in paperback, Patrick Symmes's Boys from Dolores traces a half century of Cuban history through the memories--and fate--of the Castro brothers' former classmates in their prestigious Jesuit boarding school in Santiago (Vintage, $16).

Although it is pure propaganda, the film I Am Cuba (Soy Cuba) is an astonishing work of art by Soviet filmmaker Mikhail Kalatozov (DVD, $45). There's a worthy description of it at milestonefilms.com.