Indelibly linked to the Sun King, Louis XIV, and Queen Marie-Antoinette (just see the Sofia Coppola film), Versailles epitomizes the power of the absolute monarchy better than anyplace else in France. Once you've visited the château, the other must-sees are the Grands Appartements, which include the Hall of Mirrors; the formal garden, with its statues and fountains (turned on during summer weekends); and the park beyond (33-892-684-694; chateauversailles.fr). Avoid queues by buying tickets in advance (fnac.com, in French only) or a day-pass with your train ticket.

Beyond the royal grounds, the town also warrants exploring. When the king moved to Versailles, courtiers had to follow, leaving a legacy of aristocratic town houses in what is still a prosperous, slightly snooty enclave of the haute-bourgeoisie. In the Quartier Notre-Dame, visit the covered food market on the Place du Marché Notre-Dame and the adjacent Antiquaires de la Geôle, a network of passageways around the 18th-century courthouse and royal jail that is home to more than 50 antiques dealers (30-21-15-13; antiques-versailles.com). In the Quartier St-Louis, don't miss the quaint one-story cottages of the Carrés St-Louis as well as the fascinating Potager du Roi, near the cathedral. This royal vegetable garden, planted in 1678, has preserved its geometrical layout and countless heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables—some of which you can buy (39-24-62-62; potager-du-roi.fr).

The country and city code for Versailles, France, is 33-1. Prices quoted are for August 2008.

Lodging

Although most visitors come here for the day from Paris, there are a number of attractive hotels in the area. The Trianon Palace & Spa, a palatial stucco mansion, was recently revamped in minimalist chic. Pluses are the grandiose indoor pool and health club and its location on the fringe of the park (30-84-50-00; doubles, $354–$1,144). If you prefer period town-house charm, go for the Hôtel de France, with its lavish fabrics and views of the palace from the front bedrooms (30-83-92-23; doubles, $218), or the Hôtel La Résidence du Berry, which has a billiards room (39-49-07-07; doubles, $209–$232). Behind a historic gateway, the modern Pullmann Versailles Château has more of a business traveler feel but is well situated, with spacious, comfortable rooms (39-07-46-46; doubles, $347–$409).

Dining

Gastronomically, the event of the year in Versailles has been the arrival of the temperamental British super-chef at Gordon Ramsay au Trianon. It's daring for a British chef to take on a culinary temple of France, and the high prices and surprisingly classic take on French cuisine have been greeted warily (30-84-55-56; entrées, $59–$109). Ramsay is also at the helm of the simpler Le Veranda (1 blvd. de la Reine; 30-84-55-66; entrées, $39–$109). Meanwhile, the newcomer that has drawn local plaudits is L'Angélique, where the star turn is the foie gras croque monsieur (27 ave. de St-Cloud; 30-84-98-85; set menu, $56). More laid-back, Au Carré, a great find near the covered market, serves modern bistro fare in a sleek setting (20 rue au Pain; 39-50-33-00; entrées, $25–$44). The vintage Brasserie du Théâtre is fun for people-watching (15 rue des Réservoirs; 39-50-03-21; entrées, $26–$109).

Reading

Pretty much every guidebook to Paris has a section on Versailles, but Frommer's is particularly useful ($18). To understand the intricate rituals of court life, read Antonia Fraser's racy biography Marie Antoinette: The Journey, on which Coppola's film is based (Anchor, $17), and her recent Love and Louis XIV: The Women in the Life of the Sun King (Anchor, $17). Or immerse yourself in the gossipy tales of court skulduggery, from the pen of a firsthand witness, in Memoirs of the Duc de Saint-Simon (1500 Books LLC, $22).