When I told Edwards that I wanted to learn more about Costa Rican culture, he called his Tica mother-in-law, who welcomes his clients into her home from time to time. Doña Mara showed us how to make tortillas and patacones (fried plantains) and served a delicious lunch. Our guide translated for us, but Mara's big smile said what her words didn't have to. Furthermore, Doña Mara's was far and away the most authentic Tico food I ate during the entire trip. In a country like Costa Rica, where the water can be impure, I stick to restaurants recommended by guidebooks—which are generally reliable if not terribly adventurous. In contrast, Edwards's guides took us to two local sodas, a sort of Costa Rican restaurant/deli, where we saw few tourists.

Safety
Travel agents are conservative in their concern for clients' safety, for obvious reasons. Edwards was distressed to hear that I'd stayed at the Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort during my self-planned trip, since it's located in a high-risk zone, in the path of Arenal Volcano's previous eruptions. I'd read as much in guidebooks but had given little thought to the potential danger, since the hotel and its hot springs are widely recommended. It's hard to say if I was less safe at Tabacón than I am in my earthquake-prone San Francisco home, but this much is clear: Edwards's hotel, the Arenal Kioro, had a more serene feel than the Tabacón and an even better view of the cone.

I was willing to err on the side of safety, though, when it came to canopy tours. I sought out a company with a strong safety ethic—not an easy judgment to make, since there is no national certifying organization for Costa Rica's zip-line operators. I settled on the Original Canopy Tour, because, as the name implies, it was the first in the business and consequently should know what it is doing. The equipment seemed well maintained, the staff conscientious, and the ride fun. As for Edwards's choice, Sky Trek, the staff and equipment were up to snuff, but this time the ride was thrilling, with platforms that were an order of magnitude higher, longer, and faster. And as Edwards explained to me after the fact, Sky Trek is one of the few operators (the Original Canopy Tour not among them) that passes muster with the safety engineers hired by his business partners in Costa Rica.

In terms of danger, dangling from 650-foot-high cables probably paled in comparison with my first few hours in Costa Rica during my self-booked trip. By the time I reached the airport car rental counter and filled out the paperwork, it was 11 P.M. I tried to follow the directions to my first hotel, the Trapp Family Country Inn, in the San José suburb of Alajuela, but soon got lost. When I ended up back at the terminal, I threw myself (and five dollars) on the mercy of another driver, who led the way to my hotel. I arrived safely, but vowed next time to hail a taxi and pick up the rental car the following morning.

Despite such kinks, my self-planned trip was far from a disappointment, and offered a bit more independence. But Edwards gave me a smoother journey overall, with better accommodations, good guides, and more local flavor. For travelers working with limited time and a flexible budget, these benefits will likely justify the extra cost.