Grenada's good roads and diminutive size—just 21 miles long and 12 miles wide—make it appear easy enough to explore on your own. But that would be a mistake. Many of the island's finest features are well off the beaten path, and the best way to see them is with a guide. Grenada has no better or more companionable hiking guide than Telfor Bedeau, who has spent most of his 68 years climbing its mountains and exploring the lakes and waterfalls of its jungly interior (442-6200; half-day hikes, $40). For a thorough and often entertaining overview of the island and its history, turn to local guide and conservationist Mandoo Seales. His knowledge of Grenada is encyclopedic, and he can summon the wild mona monkeys from the rain forest with his special call. Be sure to tour the Gouyave nutmeg station and the Belmont Estate to see firsthand how cocoa and nutmeg go from the tree to your table (440-1428; grenadatours.com).

The area code for Grenada is 473. Prices quoted are for September 2008.

Lodging

Most of the hotels are concentrated along the southern coast. Native Grenadian Sir Royston Hopkin was knighted for his work promoting tourism here. His extraordinary efforts show in the superb service and supreme comfort at his all-inclusive Spice Island Beach Resort. The Seagrape Beach suites are steps from the surf on sweeping Grand Anse Beach (444-4258; doubles, $635–$1,210).

Balinese-inspired Laluna, possibly the most romantic spot on Grenada, is a chic retreat for solitude-seeking trendsetters. Its 16 hillside cottages and fine open-air dining room overlook a delightfully deserted beach. A new spa and yoga center are set to open in December (439-0001; doubles, $390–$650; entrées, $24–$37).

At the end of Grand Anse Beach, Mount Cinnamon is Grenada's newest property. Its 21 large, sunny suites and villas are a hip take on beach-cottage cheerful; many have kitchens and washers and dryers (439-0000; doubles, $500–$600; set menu, $28). The clifftop one- and two-bedroom villas at Maca Bana Villas are also new, and are outfitted with fantastic kitchens, hot tubs, and stunning views (439-5355; doubles, $280).

La Source is a first-rate all-inclusive with colonial-style rooms on peaceful Pink Gin Beach. The staff are welcoming, the meals carefully prepared, and the rate covers a full complement of classes and activities, including a daily body treatment. Book an oceanview room with a high ceiling (444-2556; theamazingholiday.com; doubles, $630–$718).

Lance Aux Epines's 11 beachfront cottages are a good choice for budget-minded families. They're clean, roomy, and equipped with kitchens (444-4565; doubles, $112–$133). The Ocean and Cottage rooms at La Sagesse Nature Centre—also affordable—are spotless, simply furnished, and as close as you can come to sleeping on the beach without getting sand in your ears. The mellow vibe is contagious (444-6458; doubles, $110–$140). Smack in the middle of Grand Anse Beach, Coyaba Beach Resort is another great value. It recently renovated its 80 rooms to a mid-level hotel chain standard, and the setting will satisfy even the most discriminating beach bum (444-4129; doubles, $215).

The wild, scenic northern coastline is worth exploring but is largely overlooked and consequently has few places to stay. Morne Fendue is a historic home cum museum with 13 no-frills accommodations and an open-air dining room serving tasty local fare at lunch and dinner (442-9294; doubles, $65; entrées, $20–$45).

Dining

Spice Island, Laluna, and Mount Cinnamon, listed above, all have excellent restaurants open to the public, but there are other options. At the outdoor Aquarium Restaurant, on glorious Magazine Beach, your toes will be lapped by the sea if you stretch out your legs. The Sunday barbecue is a local institution (444-1410; entrées, $16–$35). Fish Friday is a weekly community festival in the village of Gouyave. Local chefs line the narrow streets, selling the day's catch grilled, fried, baked, or broiled, and drummers often show up, making the lively event even livelier. Nutmeg, a casual restaurant overlooking the inner harbor in St. George's, is a local favorite and serves excellent callaloo soup and lambi (conch) fritters (440-2539; entrées, $7–$31). Nearby, BB's Crab Back prepares signature curried goat and other Caribbean dishes that keep the yachties coming back for more (435-7058; entrées, $25–$90). The Beach House, on Point Salines, serves competently prepared meat and fish in an elegant dining room with walls of white shutters that let in the ocean breezes (444-4455; entrées, $6–$35).

Reading

The A–Z of Grenada Heritage is a comprehensive compendium of history, lore, and traditions (Macmillian Caribbean, $25). For a good overview, pick up Grenada: Isle of Spice, by Norma Sinclair (Macmillian Caribbean, $14). Online, grenadagrenadines.com is best.