"I've rented a car and traveled all over the country," says Fehr. "There are far fewer armed guards now, and I'm seeing a lot of development on the Ruta de las Flores, but it's being done at a higher standard."

Julio Vega, a Salvadoran, is one of those putting his mark on the Ruta de las Flores, which winds through charming towns in the mountainous coffee country in the west. Four years ago, Vega built the colorful, folk-artsy El Portezuelo ecolodge, which offers what he calls "extreme nature": horseback riding, hiking, bird-watching, mountain biking, and paragliding.

Vega was in business school in Baltimore when he and his wife decided to take their savings, return to El Salvador, and open Portezuelo. An avid surfer, he opened Las Olas Beach House two years later in the surfing mecca of La Libertad. "I started traveling, and I realized that El Salvador could compete internationally," Vega says. "We have great natural resources, a great culture, great traditions. When I left the States, people thought I was crazy, but I love my country. I want to live here and die here."

On the Ground: The best way to see El Salvador is with a knowledgeable guide such as Rene Barbón of Vista Conga Tours, in Suchitoto, who offers, among other activities, waterfall jumping, nature photography, and mango-forest camping (503-7118-1999; vistacongasuchi@yahoo.com). For surfing, mountain sports, and donkey rides, go with Julio Vega, who owns Akwaterra as well as two small resorts: El Portezuelo Park, near Juayua, and the laid-back Las Olas Beach House, in La Libertad. He can hook you up with El Salvador's No. 1 surfer for $15-an-hour lessons (503-7888-4552; akwaterra.com; doubles, $60–$70). In Suchitoto, stay at the gorgeous Los Almendros de San Lorenzo, a former sugar-cane hacienda (503-2335-1200; hotelsalvador.com; doubles, $85–$110). For dinner, La Posada de Suchitlan serves the national specialty—rooster soaked in fermented corn sauce (503-2335-1064; entrées, $9–$15). In lovely Morazán, the comfortably rustic Perkin Lenca Mountain Hotel supports a local school (503-2680-4046; perkinlenca.com; cabins, $50).