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Quick Trips: The Surfing Getaway

by Ondine Cohane, Kate Maxwell | Published October 2008 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles
Where to: Get off the beaten path in Mexico…Eat the best post-swim muffins in Montauk…Find the top surfing competitions in Hawaii…Catch the biggest waves in the Midwest (and, yes, you read that correctly)

Costa Chica, Mexico

Why: Surfers have long been the maverick travelers of the west coast of Mexico, and one of the outposts they favor is the area known as the Costa Chica ("Little Coast"), which straddles the 70 miles between the rustic beach town of Puerto Escondido and the burgeoning resort enclave of Huatulco. Unlike Puerta Vallarta and Zihuatanejo, it retains a roughness around the edges, offering spectacularly empty beaches and scruffy—or charmingly unmanicured, depending on your perspective—fishing villages. The waves, on the other hand, satisfy both visiting surf pros and the resident bohos who spend most of their time beachside.

How to Get There: Fly from Houston direct to Huatulco on Continental for about $450 (2 hours and 45 minutes; continental.com), since other major airlines go via Mexico City and then you'll need to transfer to a Mexicana or Aero-Mexico flight (many of the connections mean an overnight in the capital). On arrival, rent a car at the airport (Hertz and Avis are your best bet)—preferably a four-wheel drive for the sandy tracks that get you to the hidden breaks. Avoid driving at night: The roads are not lit so the topes, or speed bumps, are even more difficult to spot.

What You'll Need: Plenty of sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, mosquito repellent, and a supply of remedies in case of a stomach bug (drink bottled water and avoid fruits and vegetables you can't peel). Pack a good book, too, since the main activity at most hotels is sitting around the pool or relaxing on the beach.

Where to Stay: In Puerto Escondido, Villas Carrizalillo has an enviable view over the bay below (which also happens to have an easier break than the pipeline in front of town) and a new restaurant—order one of the daily seafood specials and a potent margarita (52-954-582-1735; villascarrizalillo.com; doubles, $110–$130; entrées, $7–$15). The Hotel Santa Fe has another of the town's best restaurants—the breakfasts include excellent huevos rancheros with tortillas made fresh each morning on an open fire—but while the property is close to the action of Zicatela Beach, it can feel a bit like an early-retirement home (52-954-582-0170; hotelsantafe.com.mx; doubles, $126–$162; entrées, $9–$23). In the more posh Huatulco, choose between the Camino Real Zaashila, with its 500-foot pool and private beach (52-958-583-0300; camino-zaashila.com; doubles, $135–$223), and the intimate Quinta Real Huatulco, with 28 suites set above the sea (52-958-581-0428; quintareal.com; doubles, $190–$215).

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