A new destination emerges from the shadow of its powerful neighbors, thanks to its lush landscape and hospitable people

Vitals

Best Time to Go: May through July and September through October.
Air Service from the U.S.: Turkish Airlines.
Capital: Bishkek.
Tour Cost: Approximately $150 for two per day with Kyrgyz Concept's cultural tours.
Hassle Factor: Medium. People are friendly, but services can be inefficient. Driving can be dangerous. Visitors can get by without speaking Kyrgyz or Russian, but it pays to learn a few key words or hire a guide.
Special Safety Concern: Muggings are common in Bishkek. Be cautious carrying valuables, and avoid walking late at night.

Newcomers to Central Asia, expecting barren desert, bland steppe, or Soviet homages to the use of cement, will be pleasantly surprised by the lushness of Kyrgyzstan's landscape. Often overshadowed by its powerhouse neighbors China, Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan has long been the wallflower of Central Asia. Increasingly, however, this small, mountainous country is coming into its own.

THE BIG PICTURE

What Kyrgyzstan lacks in oil wealth, mosques, and monuments it more than makes up for in natural beauty. Known as the "Switzerland of Central Asia," Kyrgyzstan counts among its main attractions snow-peaked mountain ranges, which cover more than 90 percent of the country. The most noteworthy are the majestic Tian Shan (Celestial Mountains), extending from China through Central Asia and reaching heights of more than 24,000 feet. The people of Kyrgyzstan are the other reason to visit: Locals show foreigners ready hospitality, often welcoming strangers into their homes and feting them as they would long-lost family members. The former Soviet republic is richly diverse, with signs everywhere of Kyrgyz, Uzbek, Russian, and Chinese Muslim culture.

THE DRAW

Bishkek's wide, tree-lined boulevards invite strolling and are prime places to observe Kyrgyzstan's mix of people and cultures. It's common to see men wearing the national costume, sporting improbably tall felt hats, alongside women decked in the latest haute couture. Mornings find crowds of locals at the city's Osh Bazaar, choosing among the mounds of nuts, neon-bright spices, and pyramids of oranges, apricots, and other fruits. By noon, hungry shoppers line up to buy warm naan and fresh honey. Well-heeled locals prefer the outside tables at Arzu, one of the best restaurants in town, which offers traditional Central Asian dishes such as plov, rice pilaf with lamb, and manti, homemade ravioli stuffed with pumpkin or meat (311 Jibek Jolu St.; 996-312-591-205; entrées, $5–$15). In the evening, Metro Pub is a popular spot for live music and a taste of timeworn Soviet--era grandeur (168A Chui Ave.; 996-312-217-665; entrées, $3–$20). The center of social life in most Central Asian communities is the teahouse, and one of Bishkek's nicest is Jalal Abad Chaikhana, where locals while away hours on a cushioned topchan (raised platform), sipping endless cups of green tea (30 Togo-lok Moldo St.; 996-312-610-083; entrées, $5–$15). The third floor of the grand TSUM department store (just steps from the Hyatt) is a great place to pick up handicraft souvenirs, and the people-watching doesn't cost a cent.