Urban explorers are learning that bed-and-breakfasts aren't just for quiet country getaways. B&Bs from New York to Los Angeles offer comfort, value, personal attention, and escape from the ordinary—at prices that often beat those of nearby hotels. Linda K. Nathan reports on the advantages and drawbacks of going small in the big city

I climbed the 34 steps to my new quarters in the Flemish House bed-and-breakfast, a handsome gray stone Victorian town house in Chicago's premier residential neighborhood, the Gold Coast. After several hours of travel, I was eager to freshen up, and the pristine white tiles and gleaming fixtures of the en suite bathroom made a reassuring first impression. But as I turned on the faucet marked HOT, very cold water startled me. Innkeeper Mike Maczka, who had cheerfully carried my luggage upstairs, explained that thewater has to run a long time before it gets hot. What's more, I learned, the hot water faucet was marked COLD. Translation: For hot water, turn on the cold faucet—and let it run and run. "That's part of the charm," Maczka said, "when things are mixed up."

Such eccentricities, delights, and several disappointments marked my research into an often overlooked option for city accommodations: bed-and-breakfasts. Though B&Bs are usually associated with country settings, Jay Karen, executive director of the Professional Association of International Innkeepers, said there are some 1,800 operating in U.S. cities, and surveys by the trade group show that an increasing number of leisure and business travelers are choosing them, many for the first time. "They're not predictable or institutional or boring," said David Nelson, of Old Greenwich, Connecticut, who recently started staying at B&Bs rather than hotels on his business trips.

Sandy Soule, editor of bedandbreakfast.com and a cheerleader for the industry, noted that economics is propelling tourists into these lodgings. "Though not inexpensive, bed-and-breakfasts are usually more affordable and almost always offer a better value for the money than hotels," she said, which is especially appealing in this uncertain economic climate. "B&Bs can't compete with hotels in amenities such as room service, but they offer a more affordable, intimate experience." What's more, she said, "they don't generally nickel-and-dime you" by charging for little extras such as bottled water and Wi-Fi. The average daily rate for urban B&Bs in 2006 (the last year for which figures are available) was $161, versus $259 for luxury hotels.

Karen said that travelers are also attracted to more personalized service, "where the owner/innkeeper also wears the concierge hat—often their favorite role."

My experiences in New York and Chicago, however, didn't always reflect that ideal. When I phoned the Flemish House to book my stay, I asked if the innkeeper could also reserve a ticket for Chicago's popular architectural boat tour. "We don't do concierge," was the reply, "but we'll give you brochures so you can call for yourself."

Nevertheless, I was content to be near world-class museums and shops, spending two nights in an impeccably clean, light, and airy studio with period furnishings, two double beds, down comforters, fluffy towels, a separate sitting area with cable TV, and a modern kitchenette stocked with coffee, muffins, juice, yogurt, bananas, and cereal—for which I paid $404, including tax, for two nights. My bed was made daily, the dishes were washed, I had my own keys for the front door and studio, and I felt safe knowing that co-owner Maczka lived upstairs.