Many invaders have tapped the island's bounty, but as Ondine Cohane finds, a wave of returning Sicilians is lifting the art of fine living to new heights

Sicily is at its best in spring and fall, when the temperatures are pleasant, the tourists less plentiful, and the dollar goes further. The island seems to operate under a set of traffic rules known only to natives, so consider Sicily Driver and Guide; request Carmelo Giuffrida if you are a nature buff, and either Giacamo Mazza or Salvatore Puglisi for history and archaeology (091-612-2735; sicilydriverandguide.com; $356–$484 per day).

The country code for Italy is 39. Prices quoted are for January 2009.

Lodging

In Trapani, Tonnara di Bonagia, in a former tuna factory, has large, simply furnished rooms, a seaside location, and reasonable rates (0923-431-111; nh-hoteles.com; doubles, $172–$285). Erice's Torri Pepoli is a family-owned hotel in a castle overlooking the valley. Rooms—divided into red, yellow, and blue color schemes—at times verge on kitsch (0923-860-117; doubles, $188–$300). Near Mazara del Vallo, the Kempinski Hotel Giardino di Costanza is the area's most luxurious property. It has a good spa and pool, but the decor lacks a sense of place (0923-675-0000; doubles, $677–$789). Tenuta Pignatelli offers various accommodations, from a B&B to villa rentals. Take advantage of the on-site cooking classes by chef Gianfranco Becchina (348-802-9359; doubles, $125). Along the road connecting Ragusa and Agrigento, the newly opened Falconara Charming House and Resort has a nice private beach and chic bedrooms—ask for one in the renovated castle or facing the sea (054-177-5861; doubles, $158–$457). Choose a room in the main building rather than one of the annexes at Eremo della Giubiliana, a former fortified monastery near Ragusa with a walled garden full of fruit trees (0932-669-119; doubles, $408).

Caol Ishka is the most stylish addition to the Syracuse area, with a secluded pool and an up-and-coming restaurant, Zafferano Bistrot (0931-69057; doubles, $313–$438; entrées, $21–$35). But you'll get the most bang for your buck at Ortygia's Hotel Gutkowski—two town houses on the water with an excellent breakfast and friendly staff (0931-465-861; doubles, $120–$180). If you are exploring Mount Etna, splurge for a night at Villa Ducale for its expansive views of the volcano and coastline (0942-28153; doubles, $120–$280). On Salina, Capofaro Malvasia and Resort is the best choice. It has 18 rooms in 7 cottages designed in the traditional Aeolian style—think whitewashed walls and sun-drenched terraces (090-984-4330; doubles, $394–$407). Hotel Signum is another worthwhile option on Salina (090-984-4222; doubles, $250–$408).

Next up: The 62-room La Plage Resort opens this spring on Isola Bella island just off Taormina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (089-763-4111; ragostahotels.com; doubles, $250–$477).

Dining

Sicily's cuisine is based on regional ingredients and seafood in dishes like pasta con le sarde (with sardines, pine nuts, and capers) and spaghetti alla bottarga (with dried and salted fish roe). Desserts are some of Italy's best, especially the cannoli and cassata, the local ricotta-and-marzipan cake.

Trapani's Cantina Siciliana, in the former Jewish quarter, is a humble spot serving delicious pasta with swordfish and eggplant, and bruschetta with bottarga (36 Via Giudecca; 0923-28673; entrées, $11–$36). At Taverna Paradiso, in the historic center of town, order spaghetti with astice, or blue lobster (22 Lungomare Dante Alighieri; 0923-22303; entrées, $25–$30). Sample fish couscous, a Tunisian import, at either Erice's Monte San Giuliano (7 Vicolo S. Rocco; 0923-869-595; entrées, $11–$28) or Alla Kasbah, in Mazara del Vallo (10 Via Itria; 0923-906-126; entrées, $16–$32).

Ragusa Ibla's Duomo should be on any itinerary that takes you near Syracuse. In addition to Ciccio Sultano's innovative cooking, the wine list is impressive and a good introduction to the vintages of the region (31 Boccheri; 0932-651-265; entrées, $46–$55). Locanda Don Serafino lives in the shadow of the Duomo but is almost as good—try the red snapper ravioli with mint pesto (39 Via Orfanotrofio; 0932-248-778; entrées, $39). Travelers with a sweet tooth shouldn't miss Caffè Sicilia, in Noto, known for its granita (125 Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 0931-835-013), and Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, a must-stop in Modica for artisanal chocolate (159 Corso Umberto I; 0932-941-225).

La Conchiglietta, a simple trattoria on the waterfront in Marzamemi, near Syracuse, has delicious spaghetti alle vongole and whole grilled fish (9 Via Regina Elena; 0931-841-191; entrées, $31–$37). Syracuse's Art Nouveau Jonico is a popular local spot (194 Riviera Dionisio Il Grande; 0931-65540; entrées, $16–$24). Chef Pietro D'Agostino, at Taormina's La Capinera, specializes in organic and seasonal cuisine (177 Via Nazionale; 0942-626-247; entrées, $27–$35). On Salina, 'nni Lausta, in Santa Marina, is run by Michele Casolare, formerly of New York City's San Domenico. The tuna tartare with wild fennel is excellent (090-984-3486; entrées, $24–$25). At Mount Etna, stop into Santa Venerina's Pasticceria Russo, a pastry shop that's been in the family since 1880, and try the fish-shaped marzipan candy (105 Via Vittorio Emanuele; 095-953-202).

Reading

Pick up a free copy of Le Soste di Ulisse in restaurants and hotels. Although the mini-guide's English translations leave something to be desired, its picks are on target. Blue Guide's Sicily is a good primer for local and historical information ($9), while Italy's Touring Club map is the best driving reference (Touring Editore, $11). Joe Bastianich and David Lynch's Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy is good (Clarkson Potter, $22).