Punta Tombo, Trelew
Good For: Scenery / Wildlife
To reach the Punta Tombo Provincial Reserve—home to half a million Magellanic penguins—means a rattling, dusty 90-minute drive from windswept Trelew. Entering the grounds, one sees a lone penguin standing so perfectly still that only the breeze ruffling its feathers reveals it to be real. Farther on, you encounter your second, third, twentieth, and then hundredth penguin, crouching in the shallow burrows in which they lay their eggs, or flapping their wings while squawking their harsh cries. Eventually, their numbers become almost comical—hills that stretch to the horizon are crowded with penguins standing sentry, like some vast military brigade, although here the soldiers are two feet tall. There are no trees (Patagonia is simply too windy), and the creatures' only company are the delicate llama-like guanacos and the occasional armadillo, which attempt to eat the penguins' eggs before being set upon by the pecking, screeching parents. The densest concentration of penguins can be spotted from the lookout over the beach, where they emerge from the dark, brilliant waters doing a funny backwards shuffle.
The 411: You don't need a guide at the park, but under no circumstances should you touch the penguins: Their beaks are sharp, and they're quick to snap at proffered fingers. Stay at El Pedral Lodge (see Playa la Vicera, above), but because the penguin preserve is in the opposite direction from the airport, it's most efficient to come here straightaway or to make this the last stop before boarding your flight back to Buenos Aires.
When to go: There are penguins year-round, but the greatest number arrive in the spring (Sept.—Oct.).