Joan Juliet Buck and Esin Göknar pick and choose among Istanbul's cornucopia of treasures

Istanbul is a sprawling city of 18 million, with a patchwork of neighborhoods bisected by the Bosphorus into the European and Asian sides. The up-and-coming Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus on the European side, was settled by Jews, Armenians, and Greek Orthodox during tolerant Ottoman times. This revitalized area and the luxurious waterfront of the Bosphorus—plus the rising star of the Asian region—have added to Istanbul's charms in recent years.

The easiest way to traverse the city is by taxi, but traffic is a constant. Trams ply the congested center, along Istiklal Caddesi and from the Istanbul Modern to the Grand Bazaar. Ferries are a pleasant alternative, and schedules are posted on each iskele, or (ferry terminal. Non-Turkish speakers should check out ido.com.tr/en for scenic four-hour Bosphorus tours that allow you to see the Ottoman palaces, (yalis (waterfront mansions), and iskeles from the water, as they were intended to be viewed.

The country code for Turkey is 90. Prices quoted are for May 2009.

LODGING
For proximity to Topkapi Palace and top-notch service, nothing beats the Four Seasons at Sultanahmet, a 2009 Gold List hotel (212-638-8200; doubles, $552-$615). In the same area, the affordable Empress Zoe is a small family-run hotel with Ottoman-style rooms (some with terraces) and a fabulous breakfast (212-518-2504; doubles, $141-$170). The Yesil Ev, a renovated 19-room hotel, is also on the 2009 Gold List (212-517-6785; doubles, $227-$442).

Just over the historic Galata Bridge from Sultanahmet, in the artsy neighborhoods of Galata, Taksim, and Cihangir, restored 18th-century buildings house nightclubs, galleries, cafés, and bookstores. Here, the new Witt Istanbul Suites has furnishings straight out of Wallpaper (see Hot List). For pure convenience, stay at the simple Marmara Pera, steps away from bustling Taksim (212-251-4646; doubles, $278-$303). Lush Hip Hotel, a tiny property near Taksim Square, feels like the home of an art director with a great eye and a limited budget (212-243-9595; doubles, $215-$303). The Swissôtel the Bosphorus, also near Taksim, is another 2009 Gold List pick (212-326-8181; doubles, $630-$740). In the upscale area of Tesvikiye-Nisantasi, the Park Hyatt Istanbul-Maçka Palas (see Hot List) and Sofa Hotel are the best digs (212-368-1818; doubles, $265-$290). Down the hill from Nisantasi is the restored area of Akaretler, home to the colorful W Istanbul, right next to Marc Jacobs and Sevan Biçakçi (212-381-2121; doubles, $271-$420).

For real decadence on the Bosphorus waterfront, once the playground of the rich, book Les Ottomans, a wooden yali transformed into a ten-room hotel with a spa, a pool, and service befitting a sultan (212-359-1500; doubles, $1,026-$4,489). If the bustle becomes too much, retreat to the Asian side and Sumahan on the Water (216-422-8000; doubles, $372-$435) or Ajia (216-413-9300; doubles, $284-$630).