Bad Reputation, Great Destination: This city of 2.5 million is a burgeoning cultural capital emerging from the dark days of apartheid on the strength of its diversity

THE HEADLINES
From its volatile nineteenth-century beginnings as a gold-mining shantytown through the turbulent years of apartheid and beyond, Southern Africa's largest city has grown accustomed to being portrayed in the media as an impoverished and lawless place more associated with carjackings than culture.

BEYOND THE HEADLINES
But Johannesburg is a cosmopolitan capital with a rich sociopolitical history, a thriving arts scene, and excellent shopping. People from all over Africa move to Joburg to chase their dreams, creating a diverse melting pot of cultures, languages, and ideologies. Johannesburgers have an irrepressible energy and friendly disposition that most visitors find a welcome surprise. These days, soccer fever is sweeping the city as it prepares to host the FIFA World Cup next year.

Just outside the city center, open green spaces abound. One of the best places to enjoy them is at Zoo Lake, where you can take in the views from the terrace of Moyo restaurant (1 Prince of Wales Dr.; 27-11-646-0058; entrées, $8-$14). For a look deep into South Africa's history and human rights abuses, tour Constitution Hill, site of the prison where political activists such as Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi were held. In Newtown, the city's cultural enclave, the famous Market Theatre stages first-rate plays (56 Margaret Mcingana St.; 27-11-832-1641); next door, the exhibits at Museum Africa provide an in-depth view of South Africa's more recent past as well as the ancient history of the continent (121 Bree St.; 27-11-833-5624). The township of Soweto, a vibrant city-within-a-city, has its own distinct music, fashion, and design and is a must-see in Johannesburg. The best guides are local Sowetans; book a tour through your hotel. The Apartheid Museum, in the city center, gives an unflinching and indelible glimpse of life during apartheid (27-11-309-4700; apartheidmuseum.org). On the lighter side, 44 Stanley Avenue, in the fashionable Milpark neighborhood, is a top shopping center for fashion and art.

BED AND BOARD
On a hill overlooking the city and zoo, The Westcliff has terraced gardens and old-world charm (27-11-481-6000; westcliff.co.za; doubles, $365-$445). The newly renovated Grace in Rosebank has 73 elegant rooms and a rooftop pool (27-11-280-7200; thegrace.co.za; doubles, $223). AtholPlace is a small new hotel with luxurious rooms (see Hot List). The spa at the all-suite Saxon Boutique Hotel is consistently rated among the world's best (27-11-292-6000; saxon.co.za; suites, $553-$2,002).