An unassuming Italian restaurant in Illovo, Assaggi is a local favorite (30 Rudd Rd.; 27-11-268-1370; entrées, $7-$14). In Melville, the Service Station offers breakfast and lunch in a relaxed, modern space (corner of 9th St. and Rustenburg Rd.; 27-11-726-1701; breakfast, $3-$5).

Gramadoela's, in Newtown's Market Theatre Complex, has been a Joburg institution since 1967 and serves pan-African favorites such as venison pie and seafood stew (27-11-838-6960; entrées, $7-$29). The Radium Beer Hall is the city's oldest watering hole and an atmospheric place to hear live jazz (282 Louis Botha Ave., Orange Grove).

LOCAL INTELLIGENCE
Joburg has no reliable public transportation or taxi service, so always arrange cars through your hotel. Leave valuables at home to avoid becoming a target of street crime.

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
Go underground to explore the Cullinan Diamond Mine, where the world's largest gem-quality diamond was discovered in 1905 (jozibeartours.co.za).

THE PERFECT SOUVENIR
For affordable prints of works by South Africa's leading and emerging artists, head to Newtown's Artist Proof Studio (artistproofstudio.org.za) and the Bag Factory (bagfactoryart.org.za).