Bad Reputation, Great Destination: Though this historic seaside gem is awash in character, its gritty image keeps many visitors away

THE HEADLINES
The Italian port city of Naples found a trashy way (to be in the news last year: City landfills overflowed, garbage piled up in the streets, and even the region's famed mozzarella was suspected of turning toxic. The prime minister finally waded (in and forced the opening of new landfills, but Naples's image—already tainted by mob-related crime—was left in the gutter.

BEYOND THE HEADLINES
This seaside city in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius provides a delightful crash course in Italian urban culture and is the perfect base for exploring the world-class archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum. The National Archaeological Museum (19 Piazza Museo), in the heart of Naples, has the finest mosaics from both sites (be sure to ask to see -the gabinetto segreto, a semi-secret exhibit of erotic ancient Roman art). Life in this city of rough alleys and welcoming cafés means taking the bitter with the sweet. You won't find better fish-laced pasta anywhere, or that special gift to mankind: light, doughy, wood-fired pizza. Pizza was perfected here, the Neapolitans say, and a walk down their narrow streets offers a chance for a daylong taste test.

BED AND BOARD
At press time, most Naples hotels were offering significant discounts on room rates. The prices below do not reflect these special offers. If nightly promenades by the sea appeal, the Hotel Excelsior is the place: Its stunning rooms have sea views and airy breakfast nooks (39-081-764-0111; naples-hotel-excelsior.com; doubles, $428-$496). Once a sixteenth-century convent, the Hotel San Francesco al Monte has a pretty rooftop swimming pool and garden. The hotel is high above the city, so use of the metro or taxis is a necessity (39-081-423-9111; sanfrancescoalmonte.it; doubles, $240-$365). The Grand Hotel Santa Lucia has comfy beds and views of the bay (39-081-76-40-666; santalucia.it; doubles, $371-$516).

For tasty Neapolitan fare, try Al 53's pasta bake—a ring of pasta, peas, and tomato sauce baked and topped with béchamel sauce, Parmesan, and mozzarella. The place is filled with locals, and there are outdoor tables in the summer (53 Piazza Dante; 39-081-549-9372; entrées, $10-$20). The linguine al cartoccio—mixed seafood and pasta served in paper—is special at Bellini, and the catch of the day never disappoints (79 Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli; 39-081-45-97-74; entrées, $18-$32).

Scaturchio serves up luscious ricotta-filled pastries and chocolate-covered chestnuts (19 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore; 39-081-551-6944). Neapolitans go to Caffè Gambrinus to relax and watch the world go by (1 Via Chiaia; 39-081-41-75-82). Castel Dell'Ovo, a club on the lively seafront promenade within the old castle walls, is a sure bet for a good time (3 Via Eldorado; 39-081-795-4593). There are a number of music bars in the area, including La Mela where the fun begins at midnight and doesn't end until 4 a.m. (40 Via del Delle Mille; 39-081-41-02-70).