Guilt Free at Victoria Falls
Seeing a cheetah is great, but facing up to poverty can reshape the way you see the world
Suddenly, sundowner cocktails are interrupted as the tracker shouts "Get in the jeep—now!" Fifteen yards away, a cheetah has killed an impala—not an unusual scene at South Africa's five-star Phinda camp (andbeyond.com), known for helping to save the cheetah. So begins the Southern Africa itinerary set up by Exquisite Safaris Philanthropic Travel (exquisitesafaris.com). Next stop: Botswana's Okavango Delta, where huge herds range across the terrain, and another five-star lodge, Kwando Lagoon Camp, which employs Bushmen as trackers. But for Pam Donlin, a former banker who traveled there last year, the most memorable moment came in the Zambian bush at the Butterfly Tree Project: A nonprofit, supported by Exquisite Safaris, it runs a school and health center near Victoria Falls. Donlin, her husband, and her two kids met AIDS orphans and gave out clothes. "If part of travel can be helping others, and can create awareness in one's self, it's a great thing," says Donlin, who donated a $2,500 water well and educational funds. The trip wound up at the Royal Livingstone Hotel, where monkeys scamper through the marble lobby. You can hear Victoria Falls and see the mist from the hotel. Says Donlin: "I thought, Do I ever have to leave?"
The Give: Just by going with Exquisite Safaris, you are donating $250 to a local nonprofit.
The Get: The knowledge that you are helping children receive education and clean water.
Going Local: Take photos with Mothusi Kebusitswe, a guide and camera buff at Kwara Camp (Kwando.co.za).

Cyclos for Change
Siem Reap is booming. Connecting with Cambodian nonprofits is a great way to get the real scoop
French restaurants, nouvelle Cambodian boîtes, and raucous Australian-owned bars keep Siem Reap hot well into the night. By day, you can relax by the pool at a five-star hotel after visiting Angkor Wat. But how much of all that money is trickling down to the people who really need it? Intrepid Travel (intrepidtravel.com), which promotes "meaningful" travel worldwide, offers a "Heart of Cambodia" trip that not only includes the Khmer temples but also connects travelers to the best nonprofit projects working with local people. "At every stop, our guides helped us become aware of the local issues," says Kristin Kovalik, of Bend, Oregon. The cyclo ride past French colonial buildings along Sisowath Quay, for example, is run by Cyclo Centre Phnom Penh, which helps the city's 1,400 peddlers get health care. And after Siem Reap, before hitting the beach at laid-back Sihanoukville on the Southern coast, you can stop for a pastry at a café run by the Starfish Project, which employs handicapped Cambodians. Travelers' donations and business help keep the nonprofits afloat. Says Jane Crouch of Intrepid: "There's the money, but there's also a cultural exchange that enriches both parties." In the past three years, the Intrepid Foundation, which matches travelers' gifts up to $250, has raised $426,000 for 30 projects.
The Give: A $150 donation to the Starfish Project.
The Get: Transportation to Phnom Penh and psychiatric help for a patient with no access to mental health care.
Going Local: Fish curry at Phnom Penh's Romdeng, served by ex-street kids (streetfriends.org; $6).