Rich in warmth, beaches, and history, Barbados also has variety. Isabel Fonseca and Alison Humes comb the island for action, beauty, fun, and peace of mind

Barbados, nicknamed Bimshire for its close relationship to England, is an old hand at tourism, large enough and mature enough to offer visitors a vast range of possibilities in its 11 parishes. With the exception of the main highway stretching from the airport up the west coast, major roads radiate like spokes out of the hub of the capital, Bridgetown. For those able to track down a good map and drive on the left, it's worth exploring the island by car. The rental logistics through Stoutes were a breeze (416-4456; stoutescar.com). Explore the island on foot with a free or customized hike organized by Hike Barbados (228-8027; hikebarbados.com).

The country code for Barbados is 246. Prices quoted are for July 2009.

CHRIST CHURCH
The largest and most southern parish, Christ Church is the place for people and partying, and its coast is action central. Families and young adults, kiteboarders and surfers will all find great beaches, spots to grab a bite, and nightlife. One of the most fun dining experiences is not a restaurant but the Oistins Fish Fry, a weekend street party at Oistins Harbor, where you'll find a strip of inexpensive outdoor eateries. Order fresh fish or fried chicken and breadfruit, and enjoy the relaxed paper-cup atmosphere. In the same area, the Surfer's Café Obskewer serves great coffee and an unbeatable rum punch (420-9283).

For a peaceful spot to lay your head, Glenville Gardens, a refuge of three pleasant, well-equipped cottages (Estelle is the roomiest), is a couple of blocks from Accra Beach, in Hastings. Taste the golden apples (like a kiwi-mango hybrid) that fall from the trees, and keep your eyes peeled for a family of monkeys and six shy turtles (228-5713; cottages, $200). Farther west is Peach and Quiet, a resort of 22 suites surrounding a whitewashed garden patio in the residential hamlet of Inch Marlow. Currently under renovation, it's slated to reopen in November (428-5682; doubles, $109-$119; no children).

ST. JAMES
This parish is known for its calm-water beaches, luxurious resorts and villas, golf courses and polo fields. Sandy Lane, a Gold List property, is lavish and expensive (444-2000; doubles, $1,000-$2,000). For a resort with a classic colonial feel, try the Coral Reef Club (422-2372; doubles, $420-$1,265). More contemporary and with an unmarked entrance, The House has 34 rooms in a spare white-and-blue palette, with dark wood and low-slung tables (432-5525; doubles, $664-$1,180; no children). The Sunswept Beach Hotel is a good family option right in Holetown. Kids under 12 stay free in its 23 spacious rooms with kitchenettes. There's also a small pool and direct access to the beach, which compensates for the cramped common quarters (432-2715; doubles, $125).