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Cape Verde: Where to Stay, Eat, and Play

by George Rush | Published July 2009 | See more Condé Nast Traveler articles

The best way to experience Cape Verde, the island-nation off the Senegalese coast, is on a trip organized by a travel specialist. United Kingdom-based Cape Verde Experience (44-845-330-2071; capeverdeexperience.co.uk) partners with local Barracuda Tours (238-251-1907; barracudatours.com) and can arrange multi-island itineraries, chauffeur-driven cars, and all manner of activities. Neves Travel & Tours is expert in the byzantine business of booking internal flights (508-996-1332; nevestravel.com). The islands' rainy season runs from August through October, although the bad weather is usually confined to four or five days a month. Occasional sandstorms can ground planes from January through March.

The country code for Cape Verde is 238. Prices quoted are for July 2009.

BOA VISTA
Catch live music in the courtyard of the Migrante Guesthouse, a renovated four-suite mansion (251-1143; suites, $96-$110). Among the better beach resorts are the Marine Club (251-1285; doubles, $117), the Parque das Dunas (251-1290; doubles, $130-$186), and the Venta Clubb (251-1407; doubles, $314). For an upscale desert-island experience, try the 12-room Spinguera (251-1941; doubles, $246).

The deep-sea-fishing outfitter Boapesca can help you hook a yellowfin tuna and put it on a plate at the Blue Marlin restaurant (994-1060; entrées, $6-$12).

The Boa Vista Wind Club provides equipment and lessons for kayaking and kite-, wave-, and windsurfing (997-9188; boavistawindclub.com). The Submarine Center, on Estoril Beach, offers scuba and snorkeling gear as well as lessons (992-4865). The island where the morna is said to have been born hosts the Praia de Santa Cruz music festival each August.

FOGO
The Hotel Xaguate, overlooking the sea, has Fogo's best rooms, restaurant, and pool (281-1222; doubles, $126; entrées, $15-$23). More modest but blessed with cathedral and ocean views is Casa Renate (281-2518; doubles, $43-$55). Fogo's main attraction is the volcano. It's easy enough to explore the crater left by the 1995 eruption on your own, but you'll need a guide to summit Pico do Fogo. Your tour company or concierge can recommend one—as can Patrick Zimmerman, owner of the 12-room Pousada Pedra Brabo, where the French-inflected fare will help you to recover from the trek (282-1521; doubles, $37; entrées, $8-$11).

For a window on colonial life, check out the Casa da Memória museum (281-2765). The island's major festival, Bandeira de São Filipe, in late April, features processions, dancing, and horse racing on the beach.

SAL
No island caters to tourists like Sal. The all-inclusive twin resorts of Riu Funana (242-9060; doubles, $225-$241) and Riu Garopa (242-9040; doubles, $336)—each with 500 rooms—provide a self-contained world of restaurants and activities. The 233-room Hotel Oásis Atlântico Belorizonte has many of the same attractions without the feeling of a city-state (242-1045; doubles, $166-$203). Started in 1967 by a pioneering Belgian couple, the 117-room Morabeza has a loyal following (242-1020; doubles, $153-$168). Still more intimate is the Hotel Odjo d'Agua, with 46 rooms and suites, a well-regarded restaurant, and a sweet stretch of beach (242-1414; doubles, $136-$172; entrées, $11-$41).

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Prices and other information were accurate at press time, but are subject to change. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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