Staying in a traditional inn, or ryokan, is the best way to experience Japanese hospitality. A few things to remember: Planning ahead always produces wonders. Upon booking—sometimes months before you check in—the front desk will ask to know your precise hour of arrival, what time you'd like breakfast and dinner, and whether you need a taxi to the train station. You might also be asked your height and weight, so they can provide a proper yukata, or cotton kimono.

Locating a good ryokan in Hokkaido is easy, but finding one where the management speak English and are happy to deal with foreigners is trickier. Novices should book through specialty Web sites, which can help negotiate the language barrier. The inns represented by the Ryokan Collection are exquisite and pricey (ryokancollection.com), while Japanese Guest Houses has a much wider offering, from small family-run establishments to large ryokan-hotel hybrids (japaneseguesthouses.com). The calm and seclusion of ryokans doesn't happen by accident; it's the result of regiment and ritual. If you struggle with schedules and don't enjoy the meticulous ceremony of Japanese haute cuisine, you may find a ryokan confining. (Some even have a curfew.)

The country code for Japan is 81. Prices quoted are for July 2009.

LODGING & DINING
Ryokan rates include two lavish meals, onsen (bath) privileges, and more. And although prices vary widely, depending on quality and location, Hokkaido ryokans are a bargain. On the outskirts of Otaru, the ultramodern Kuramure includes all beverages—alcoholic and otherwise—in its rates (134-51-5151; $165-$193 per person). Another option is the Unganoyado Otaru Furukawa, a charming country-style inn in the center of town (134-29-2345; $109-$143 per person). In Niseko, the bustling, family-friendly Hotel Kanronomori is a ten-minute shuttle bus ride from the slopes (136-58-3800; doubles, $208-$354).

If you're determined to have ski-in/ski-out accommodations in Niseko, the best options are the Hilton Niseko, in Niseko Village (136-44-1111; doubles, $166-$260), and the Hotel Niseko Alpen, in Hirafu (136-22-1105; doubles, $188-$208). For a fun atmosphere, Grandpapa, in Hirafu Village, is a groovy pensione full of Aussies (136-23-2244; doubles, $68-$75).

A dozen ryokans can be found in Hakodate's hot springs area of Yunokawa. The Chikuba Shinyotei offers a formal experience and a gorgeous onsen (138-57-5171; $119-$153 per person). A bit closer to the coast, try the beautiful Ichinomatsu (138-57-0001; $68 per person).

b>ACTIVITIES
In winter, southwestern Hokkaido's ski resorts cater to all tastes. There are several resorts outside Sapporo and smaller, old-time runs in Otaru. The charming, low-key operations at Asari Village (134-54-0101; asari-ski.com) and Mount Tengu (134-34-1471; tengu.co.jp/english) bring to mind an old New England ski resort—both promise maximum fun and no social pressure. The runs often lack signs, so carry a trail map. And be warned: Anything marked for seniors means advanced skiers, not the elderly.