Ecuador's compact scale means you can hit many of the highlights in a single trip. However, short distances don't necessarily mean easy drives. It's wise to leave flight arrangements and transfers to a logistical expert. Blue Parallel organizes itineraries that combine the mainland and the Galápagos as well as private tours of sights usually closed to the public. It also has excellent drivers and local guides—ask for Santiago Martínez or Nathalie Diaz (800-256-5307; blueparallel.com). The weather is highly changeable, but June through September is usually the driest time in Quito and the surrounding sierras (with less cloud cover you can see the volcanoes more clearly). In the Oriente rain forest, September through December has the lowest rainfall.

The country code for Ecuador is 593. Prices quoted are for August 2009.

LODGING
Opened in 2007, the 15-suite Hotel Plaza Grande is Quito's most luxurious property. Rooms have marble bathrooms and little terraces overlooking the main square, and a few have baldachino beds (22-510-777; doubles, $500). Quito's Patio Andaluz has two internal courtyards and balconies overlooking its own restaurant. Some room configurations are strange: You have to climb a staircase to reach the bathroom (which is quite small). But the staff are friendly and efficient (22-280-830; doubles, $200). One of the capital's best bargains, Relicario del Carmen has a good location near the center, fine service, and a hearty breakfast that's included. Be sure to ask for an upper-floor room: International flights arrive late, and you'll hear footsteps and luggage wheels overhead if you stay on the ground floor (22-289-120; doubles, $120). Quito's 26-room Café Cultura is in a beautifully restored mansion with a wood-paneled library, fireplaces, and, in some rooms, sunken tubs (22-558-889; doubles, $109).

Family-owned haciendas provide a historical and luxurious base from which to explore the surrounding sierras on foot, by horse, or on mountain bike and to visit local villages and markets. North of the capital, the 5,000-acre Hacienda Zuleta remains a working farm. It has 16 rooms and serves communal meals that incorporate organic vegetables and cheese produced on-site (62-662-182; doubles, $175-$250 per person per day, including meals). With Cotopaxi as a backdrop, San Agustín de Callo, south of Quito, has some of the country's best views, huge guest rooms, and standout breakfasts. If you go horseback riding, ask for Francisco (22-906-157; doubles, $424$485, including meals).