Tourism in Haiti may be on its way back, but service can still be highly erratic. What counts is location, good will, and cleanliness. If you've got a view of an uncrowded beach or a stretch of the rooftops of a colonial town, plus laundered sheets, screens, running water, and good local food (and maybe a glass of chilled wine), you'll be satisfied, even delighted. Most travelers hire a guide who also serves as translator and driver. Small towns like Aquin, Les Cayes, and Jacmel have vibrant downtown life; without a guide you could miss the domino games in the central square, merengue dance clubs, voodoo services, and the best fried pork. Jean Cyril Pressoir of Tour Haiti plans trips to the island's most beautiful islets, with stops at local restaurants and family-style hotels (509-2257-1926; tourhaiti.net; full-day tour, $90). Jacqualine Labrom of Voyages Lumière Haiti is equally capable (2249-6177; full-day tours, $125-$250). Bring U.S. dollars for street spending and expect to exchange money on corners (your guide can do this for you). No one changes money at a bank. Most hotels in the capital will take credit cards, but out of town it's hit-or-miss.

The country code for Haiti is 509. Prices quoted are for September 2009.

LODING
Most visitors stay in Pétionville, a suburb of Port-au-Prince. The Villa Créole has a hillside location, gardens, and Internet access (2257-1570; doubles, $150-$180). The Karibe is a business hotel with spacious rooms and the tranquil Botanik Spa (2256-9808; doubles, $110; hour massage, $88). The Hôtel Montana is set away from the bustle, with standard rooms and luxurious junior suites. Its restaurant, Panorama, serves good Haitian fare—a hybrid of French and Caribbean cuisines. Book a room facing away from the main courtyard and its late-night festivals and parties (2229-4000; doubles, $150-$205; entrées, $14-$27). Le Plaza is the best place within a stone's throw of the Presidential Palace (2224-9308; doubles, $85-$95). Nearby, the venerable Hôtel Oloffson can no longer be recommended for its rooms but from the veranda bar and restaurant you can hear street life and sit among a rarefied expat clientele, sheltered by the palm fronds. The proprietor's band, RAM, a big draw, plays on Thursday nights (2223-4000; doubles, $70-$113). Up in the mountains, 5,000 feet above the city, the breezy 40-room Ranch Le Montcel, in Belot-Kenscoff, is set on 16 lush acres. Mountain bike, horseback ride, or just hang out on the restaurant terrace. If you don't stay here, book a day-trip from the city—the staff will pick you up (3708-0330; doubles, $140). On the way out of Port-au-Prince, near the beaches of Les Arcadins, the impressive open-air Club Indigo, which used to be a Club Med, has a clean private beach, two pools, and outdoor dining, but rooms are merely adequate (3650-1000; doubles, $88-$165).